Thursday, October 23, 2014

Eagle Rare 10 Year, Single Barrel- Ky Straight Bourbon





Bourbon Review #18: Eagle Rare 10 Year, Single Barrel- KY Straight Bourbon

Category: “Go-To”
Price: $32
Availability: Year Round-Everywhere.        
Proof: 90, 45% avb
Age: 10 Years Old.
Mashbill: Buffalo Trace #1 Mashbill      
Distillery: Buffalo Trace- Frankfort, Kentucky

    
     Eagle Rare is a 10 year-old, single barrel, Kentucky straight Bourbon. It’s the first "go to" bourbon that I’ve reviewed utilizing the #1 Buffalo trace mashbill. This mashbill contains a lower percentage of rye when compared to their #2 mashbill. For comparison, I’ll list a few examples of each:

B.T. #1 Mashbill: Buffalo Trace (Standard Label), Eagle Rare, George T Stag, Colonel E.H. Taylor, etcetera. 

B.T. #2 Mashbill: Rock Hill Farms, Elmer T Lee, Blanton’s, Ancient Age, etcetera.

     For the record, B.T. also has straight rye (Sazarac and Thomas Handy) and wheated bourbon (W.L. Weller and Van Winkle) mashbills.

     Eagle Rare 10 year has placed highly at a number of distilled spirit competitions. It received a string of gold and double gold medals from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Between 2005 and 2010, it was given an above-average score of 92 by the Beverage Testing Institute. In 2013, Eagle Rare Single Barrel Bourbon was awarded the inaugural Bourbon Trophy at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in the United Kingdom.


     Buffalo Trace also puts out a 17-year-old version of Eagle Rare for their annual, limited release “Antique Collection”. It’s basically the same expression as the 10-year. It’s also offered at the same (90) proof. The only difference is it’s seven years older than it’s little brother.

     
     Overall: this is a nice, solid bourbon. However, in my opinion, it's not exceptional. For about the same price, I could pick up a bottle of Elmer T Lee or Four Roses Single barrel. I happen to personally prefer both over the Eagle Rare. It lacks luster, particularly in complexity. Again, it’s not a bad bourbon! It’s just not my favorite style of bourbon.

     Forward in the mouth there's a sweet corn roundedness. This is followed by some mid-palate notes of caramel, and a small hint of orange zest. The citrus note flows into the finish mixing with bright, pungent oak, and a trace of vanilla. In my opinion, the biggest note is the oak. This expression is heavy on wood, particularly on the back-end of the pallet. The finish is moderate in length. The viscosity is mid-range. The Colonel’s score is between 6 and 7 out of 10.



   



Thursday, October 16, 2014

Willett Family Estate 9 Year Old Single Barrel, Barrel Strength KY Straight Bourbon





Bourbon Review #17: Willett “Family Estate”, 9 Year Old, Single Barrel- Barrel Proof, Kentucky Straight Bourbon

Category: “Boutique”
Price: $85
Availability: Limited (Spring) Release.       
Proof: 119.6, 59.8% avb
Age: Nine Years Old.
Mashbill: Traditional Bourbon      
Distillery: Sourced From Unknown Distillery. Produced by: Willett (KBD)

     After a fortnight aboard the international space station, I touched down in Portland, Oregon. The purpose of my visit was to attend the celebratory wedding of my brother-in-law, and (to be) sister-in-law, Mr. & Mrs. Vincent & Ximena Sliwoski.

     I wanted something special to review for this festive occasion. I also wanted to select something out of my pantry that Vince had not tried. Unfortunately, he had already tried the bourbons that are on the list to be reviewed, while he had not tried the bourbons that I have already reviewed.

     I was hoping to snag a special fall release prior to my trip, but the release did not coincide with my depature. This was going to be trickier than I thought, so I called on my good friend Dr. Joel Kilty.

     Joel came to the rescue with a super-premium bourbon that neither I nor Vince had tried! To add an element of surprise to the show, I asked Joel not to reveal the bourbon that he had chosen.

     On the one hand, this is not my preferred method for reviewing bourbons. Prior to each review, I like to become familiar with a given expression. This involves sampling it multiple times (at least three) over a given period of time. I do this because on more than one occasion, my thoughts have changed from a first encounter compared with future samplings.

     Regardless, I knew that opening the package on the show would add an element of excitement and surprise. I couldn’t help but feel like a kid at Christmas, as I tore into the packaging!

     If you are curious about the Willett/KBD Company, I would invite you to read my previous reviews on their other products. To keep from repeating information, I won’t focus on that topic during this review.

     Vincent is a long over-due special guest on the show. He enjoys good bourbons more than many of my other family members. His lovely bride Ximena was a pleasure to have aboard as well! She is such a kind, warm person, and a marvelous addition to our growing family! I wish them both all the best regarding their future together as husband and wife!


     
     Overall: This is an incredibly balanced bourbon with a drop-kick to the Adam’s-apple! It offers the same level of elegance as the 2013 Parker’s Heritage. It is perhaps a tad-bit sweeter. The major difference is the proof. 2013 Parker’s is 96 proof, while this expression comes in at 119.6. During the episode, I failed to mention the color. It’s basically a bright, golden-amber.



     After returning home, I finished off the last of the sample. I tried it both neat and with a splash of water. The water softened the alcohol, while increasing some liquorish notes, akin to Indian mukhwas. However, I prefer this expression neat. If you plan on adding water, I would recommend a very conservative amount. The Colonel’s score is 9 out of 10!

      

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Four Roses Single Barrel




Bourbon Review #16: Four Roses Single Barrel

Category: “Go-To”
Price: $35
Availability: Everywhere, year-round.       
Proof: 100, 50% avb
Age: No Age Statement.
Mashbill: OBSV   
Distillery: Four Roses- Lawrenceburg, Kentucky.

     In my opinion, the Four Roses company produces some of the nicest bourbons on the market today! From their entry level “Yellow Label”, to their super premium “Limited Release” and “Private Selections”, Four Roses is top-to-bottom excellent bourbon! F.R. Single Barrel is the most popular single barrel bourbon in the state of Kentucky. I think that says a lot about this product, and the company!

     Several months ago, I reviewed the F. R. 2013, Limited Release- Small Batch.  In the written portion of that review I extensively covered the history of the F.R. Company. If you’re interested why F.R. is so special, I would recommend reading that entry. The subject for this review is the F.R. “regular” single barrel.

     I say “regular”, so that there won’t be any confusion. Each year in the spring, F.R. releases a limited edition single barrel. They also have a private selection single barrel. What makes the regular juice different from the limited release stuff? Well, to over-simplify it, price, allocation, mashbill, warehouse aging location, and proof, among other factors.

     By contrast, the “regular” single barrel can be found most anywhere at a reasonable price-point of $38. In fact, I found it in my town for $33. In my opinion, that’s a tremendous value when considering the quality of this juice!

      For a long time now, Elmer T. Lee has held the #1 spot of my favorite “go-to” bourbons. Up until now, everything that I’ve put up against it has fallen short.  Well folks, that’s about to change! Yes, the Four Roses Single Barrel has finely dethroned Mr. T. Lee, and is therefore the new heavyweight champion of the “go-to” bourbons! Subsequently, Elmer T Lee has moved down to the #2 spot.


     
     Overall: The F.R. Single Barrel is an incredibly unique and balanced bourbon. However, if you’re not a fan of rye forward bourbons, I would point you in other directions. I love it because it’s heavy in the mouth, the alcohol is very nicely integrated, and the finish is long and luxurious. Mid palate notes included: sweet maraschino cherries, bright oak and creamy vanilla. Finish notes included: Baking spices, (clove and cinnamon) soft wood and rye pepper. This expression strikes an interesting balance between big bold flavors mixed with soft creamy notes. In short, nothing taste like a Four Roses bourbon! Its just all-around great stuff!! The Colonel’s score is a very high 8 out of 10. 



Thursday, September 18, 2014

Old Fitzgerald Very Special 12 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon




Bourbon Review #15: Old Fitzgerald Very Special 12 Year Old Bourbon

Category: “Go-To”
Price: $35
Availability: Distributed to select states within the USA.       
Proof: 90, 45% avb
Age: 12 Years
Mashbill: Wheat    
Distillery: Heaven Hill- Bardstown, Kentucky.



     Well folks, my four-part serious on rye whiskeys has come to a close. I had a blast reviewing these products, and look forward to reviewing more of them in the future. Now it’s time to jump back into bourbon land! I’m a fan of old (post 10 year) wheated bourbons. The subject for this episode falls nicely into that category.

     The Old Fitzgerald brand goes back to the late 1800’s. John E. Fitzgerald was the creator of this bourbon. It was later purchased by Julian “Pappy” Van Winkle, and produced at the Stitzel-Weller distillery in Shively, KY. Because of this, Old Fitzgerald shares the same historical “wheated” DNA as W.L. Weller and the Van Winkle bourbons.

     On the very first episode of the show, I reviewed W.L. Weller 12 Year Old Bourbon. Old Fitz 12 is often compared to Weller 12. Although these two bourbons can trace their roots back to Stitzel-Weller, are offered at the same proof, the same age, and both have wheated mashbills, they have evolved differently.

     In 1992, Diageo purchased the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Old Fitz sat dormant for a period of time before eventually being sold off to the Heaven Hill Distillery. 

     By contrast, the WL Weller brand had a more linear evolution. It, along with the Van Winkle brand went from Stitzel-Weller directly to Buffalo Trace (where it is being distilled today).

     Although this review is not intended to be a side-by-side comparison of the two bourbons, it will be interesting to see how I rank them. This will be fascinating to me simply because of how much they have in common.


     
     Overall: Quite simply, I’m not a fan of the Old Fitzgerald 12 Year bourbon. In my opinion, this “very special” wheated bourbon is….well….not so special! It just goes to show that sharing a past with the WL Weller and Van Winkle products doesn’t always translate to a “high quality” product on today’s market. I’m not trying to say that it started out great and deteriorated over time. I didn’t live back then, so I’ll never be able to speak to it’s original quality. I just know that I’m not a fan of the current juice that Heaven Hill is putting out under this old brand today.

     The finish is hardly there. The mouth-feel is watery and thin. The alcohol is not integrated well and serves to distract from the other flavors. It lacks both structure and complexity. I get a little of the sweet caramel/butterscotch notes. There is almost no spice. The wood is by-in-large absent. The Colonel’s score is a 3 out of 10. That’s a far lower score than the 6-7 that I gave to the Weller 12 year. If you asked me to choose between these two wheated bourbons, I would point you to the W.L. Weller 12 year with a high degree of confidence. 





         

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Willett Family Estate- Two Year Old- Rye (Small Batch)





Whiskey Review #14: Willett Family Estate- Two Year Old- Rye (Small Batch)



Category: “Go-To”

Price: $36
Availability: Everywhere     
Proof: 108.1, 54.1% abv (Barrel Strength)
Age: Two Years Old
Mashbill: Ether- 51% rye + 34% corn. Or- 74% rye + 11% corn. Or a combination.   
Distillery: Willett Distillery, Bardstown, Kentucky

     This is my fourth and final installment concerning rye whiskeys. That’s not to say that I won’t revisit them in the future! I will look forward to reviewing more ryes as they make their way into the Colonel’s pantry.

     Before I get into the meat of this review, let me take a moment to discuss the benefits of having a whiskey-sharing club. This can be as formal, or as informal, as you want. I happen to be in a three-person club (including myself). The main function of our club is to share the contents of our pantries, despite the fact that we live in different states.

     A few months back Dr. Joel Kilty purchased several small, 2oz, empty bottles. These bottles have screw down, airtight lids. Basically, he sends me stuff out of his pantry that I don’t have and visa versa. This is a great way to sample expressions, without the commitment of purchasing an entire bottle. The bottles are cheep and lightweight, making them easy to ship back and forth. My sample of the Willett 2 year rye was provided courtesy of Dr. Joel Kilty.       

     I will conclude my series on rye whiskies with a very timely review. The “Willett Family Estate 2 year old Kentucky Straight Rye (Small Batch),” is the first offering to emerge from the newly renovated Willett Distillery! Previously, the Willett Company (KBD) has been sourcing their whiskeys from other distilleries. In 2012 renovations were completed, and distillation/aging began.

     It’s no surprise that the first offering is a rye whiskey. As I have stated before, ryes are aged as younger expressions, as compared to bourbon. Two years however, is VERY YOUNG! Let’s face it, there was a large anticipation awaiting Willett’s first release.    However, are the folks at Willett capitalizing prematurely? One interesting offset to this very young product is it’s proof. In my opinion, a young barrel strength rye could go ether way. One thing is for certain, a lot is riding on the line for the folks at Willett with this first offering. I doubt seriously that they would produce a rushed, sub-par product with this much attention and hype.

     

     Overall: Although the alcohol is not distracting in an “off” sort of way, it is rather dominating the sip from mid pallet through to the finish. It warms up the spirit nicely, but serves to suffocate some of the more delicate notes. The +3 viscosity is helping to add to the finish, and creates a more luxurious mouth feel. It’s soft, delicate, sweet-fruit shines through the hefty punch of warm alcohol. The finish leaves you with butter-laced raisins and spiced cinnamon.

     I think it’s amazing that the folks at Willett can achieve a whiskey this nice in only two years. I’m not saying it’s the finest rye I have ever had, but it’s certainly not the worst! It does however beg the question, what could they turn out with more time? This young rye is only a foretaste of the wonderful offerings yet to roll out of Willett. I’m impressed with this expression, and look forward to the new whiskeys to come! The Colonel’s Score: 7 out of 10.    


Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye: 13 Year Old Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey




Whiskey Review #13: Van Winkle 13 Year Old Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey 

Category: Boutique
Price: $70
Availability: Almost nowhere   
Proof: 95.6, 47.8% abv
Age: 13 years (although this expression is probably pushing 19.)    
Mashbill: an undefined marriage of Old Medley and Bernheim Rye  
Distillery: Buffalo Trace, Frankfort, Kentucky/ Old Medley and Bernheim 



     Every million years or so, you can stand on a mountaintop in Greenland and hear the magnetic frequency of the northern lights zing overhead; their brilliant, playful, color-display flair across the sky above. You’re taking all of this in while simultaneously appreciating the stunning view of Saturn as it aligns on the low, pink horizon. The extremely rare northern migration of an African Blue Crane softly lands in the rocky bay below.

     Am I the only person who thinks it’s special that my 13th review happens to be a 13-year-old product? I’m hard pressed to think of any other 13-year-old whiskey on the market. Maybe its because certain brands believed that the “13 year” mark would be unlucky in the minds of superstitious folks. I could see how this would incline them to make 10, 12 and 15-year old products in order to keep sales up. In all seriousness, the Van Winkle 13 Year Old Rye, is anything but unlucky! It seems fitting that this rare gym would fall just perfectly into this 13th review spot. This extremely elusive whiskey is nearly perfect in every way! 

     While visiting my homeland of Kentucky, I had the opportunity to taste several expressions from my good friend Dr. Joel Kilty’s pantry. The V.W. 13-rye was one of the highlights of the evening! To make this review even more special, this bottle was hand signed for Dr. Kilty by Julian Van Winkle III! According to Joel, when he showed up in line to have Julian sign his bottle, Julian’s response was “Where in the world did you get this bottle of 13 rye?”  “Danville, Kentucky, ” he answered.  Julian responded with, “Ah those folks in Danville don’t know a thing about whiskey!” For the record, Danville is where Julian’s grandfather (Pappy) graduated from college, at Centre College. I just think it makes this story all the more funny!



     It is no mystery that the Van Winkle 13 rye is sourced, however when you start to dig into the particulars, it gets ambiguous. I’m not going to make claims for information that I don’t have. Unlike the other Van Winkle products, the 13-year rye (actually closer to 19 years old) is a combination of Medley (Owensboro, Kentucky) and Cream of Kentucky (old Bernheim in Louisville) rye whiskey. In regards to the mashbill, the rye sits close to the legal minimum of 51%, with a hefty dose of corn at slightly less than 30%. This would explain the softer, sweeter, more rounded quality.

     When I travel, I keep a small whiskey diary with me. The following review was recorded in my diary:

     Van Winkle 13 year Old Rye Whiskey:

     Color: A Dark, rustic, amber.

     Nose: Candied granny smith apples, dipped in caramel. The nose is well structured with a hint of smoke and dry, rye spice.

     Palate: In order (from start to finish) Sweet Minnesota corn, white pepper, caramel, dry smoke, lemon zest, buttered vanilla, oak, candied cinnamon.

     Viscosity: chewy, sticky and somewhat thick.

     Finish: Very long. This is akin to all other post 10-year-old, Van Winkle products. 

     Overall: The corn is working well to add a touch of sweet roundness, while simultaneously softening the dry, spicy rye notes. The structure and overall quality of this expression immediately puts you in mind of the other Van Winkle products. It’s certainly unique among other rye whiskies. I would say it is sweeter and softer than most with a killer long finish! In fact, it has the longest finish of any rye I have ever had! The Colonel’s score: 9 out of 10! This one’s going to make the Colonel’s top five favorite boutique list! (Replacing Parker’s Heritage in the #5 spot) This means that there are currently three Van Winkle products on that list of five. It just goes to show you what I think in general about the Van Winkle whiskies!  

           






Tuesday, August 5, 2014

High West Double Rye




Whiskey Review #12: High West Double Rye



Category: Go to
Price: $38
Availability: Year Round-Everywhere  
Proof: 92, 46% abv
Age: 2 years and 16 years
Mashbill: 2 year old- 95% rye, 5% barley. 16 year- 53% rye, 37% corn 
Distillery: Sourced from MGP Distillery of Lawrenceburg, Indiana.

     And, now on to the second installment in my series on rye whiskies. This episode features the High West Double Rye Whiskey. High West is considered to be a “craft whiskey” company based out of Old Town Park City, Utah. The reason that they are considered to be a craft distillery is because they’re involved with innovative concepts regarding the whiskeys they source. These concepts include the small batching of whiskies that you would not normally think about putting together in order to create some truly unique expressions. The folks at High West are sourcing some of the best rye whiskey on mother earth! The Double Rye is just one of their amazing rye’s in the High West lineup.

     The “Double Rye” is a very unique because it combines two rye whiskies with different mashbills. One is a two-year-old rye with a high percent of rye in the mashbill. The other is a sixteen-year-old rye with a lower percent of rye and a fair amount of corn in the mashbill. These two ryes are married together to create a very complex and interesting expression.







     Overall: This is fantastically complex stuff! It hits you with an explosion of unexpected and even exotic flavors. It’s zesty, spicy, sweet and earthy characteristics are separated out in the sip. Sometimes I prefer this to a tightly compact blending of flavors, because I feel that it gives you more of an opportunity to taste each and every note as the sip progresses. The 37% corn in the 16 year old, helps round things out, and adds a touch of sweetness. This is a rye whiskey that can and should be sipped neat. At this price point, I’m going to have to restructure my top five favorite go-to list. Oh yes, it’s making the list at no less than the #2 spot, just under Elmer T. Lee!!! The Colonel gives the High West Double Rye a 9 out of 10! I can’t wait to try some of the other products coming out of High West!