Wednesday, May 28, 2014

The Colonel's Signature Mint Julep Recipe







     From Churchill downs to Keenland, the Colonel has consumed many mint Juleps. The large majority of them have been disgusting! Think North Carolina sweet tea, packed with crushed-ice, a dash of low proof rock-gut bourbon, and a sprig of peppermint for decoration. You get the idea. The end result is an overpriced, overly sweet, watered-down mint slushpuppie that hints of bourbon. I basically got to the point where I stopped ordering them altogether.

     However, the flavor combinations could work unbelievably well together, if they were done right. Case in point; I always thought meatloaf was hideous. Turned out that I just never had good meatloaf. I was skeptical to try it, until a fantastic chef made it for me. Regardless of the dish (or drink), it’s all about freshness of ingredients, and an experienced, discerning chef/bartender. The same point applies when creating a fantastic julep. You can build a castle on a weak foundation. No matter how pretty it looks, it’s going to crumble.  

     Other bourbon enthusiasts have expressed similar concerns about the current dissatisfying state of the julep. Many of them have set out on their own journeys to make the perfect julep.

      The function of this episode is to bring you a mint julep that the world has only dreamed about. A julep that is bold, balanced and brilliant! A julep that showcases bourbon on a towering pedestal, rather than letting it sink in a syrupy swamp. Ladies and gentleman, I give you Colonel Sparkman’s Signature Mint Julep!!

     This is not a julep for the Colonel and his team of Swiss alchemists to enjoy alone. All of my efforts are for the purposes of sharing this southern treasure with you….the serious connoisseur! If you follow my step-by-step instructions listed below, you’ll be sure to turn out a knock your socks off julep! Once you get the hang of it, you can enjoy these fine cocktails with friends any time of year. There is only one rule; don’t deviate one degree from my below listed steeps, lest ye find yourself in the ruins of julep sorrow!

1.     The bourbon: No need for spendy stuff. Stick to a good, moderate to low priced, high proof bourbon. DO NOT DIP BELOW 90 PROOF (86 IS NOT EXCEPTABLE). I would recommend the following: Evan Williams White Label BIB, Pure Kentucky XO 107 proof, Old Grand-dad BIB, Very Old Barton BIB and Old Heaven Hill BIB. If you can’t find these, Wild Turkey 101 would also be a great choice. Some folks use rye whisky, but I would personally stick to bourbon.

2.     The Ice: The ice from your freezer will work fine as long as it doesn’t have any freezer burn/off flavors. If you want to be on the safe side, just pick up a bag from you local store. Once you have the ice, wrap it in a tea towel and beat it with a hammer, rolling pen, or any blunt object. The idea is to powderise the ice. Once this is accomplished, you can transfer it into gallon zip lock bags. Put them back in your freezer until all the following steps are completed.

3.     The Mint: DO NOT USE PEPPERMINT. Fresh spearmint will work fine, but the ultimate is Kentucky Colonel Mint. You can order it on line from the following link.

     http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291046308394?lpid=82

4.     The Cup: My best recommendation would be a very thin stainless still cup. You can find these on line if you search for julep cup. They will frost up nicely and retain the cold temperature from the ice. If you don’t have one you could also use a rocks glass, or whatever you have in your pantry.

     5. The Recipe: -3/4 ounce Mint Simple Syrup (Recipe Follows)
                             -6 Kentucky Colonel Mint Leaves (medium to large size)

                             -3 Ounces of High Proof Bourbon
                             -Powderized Ice


 Mint Simple Syrup -2 cups Sugar

                                  -1 cup Water

                                  -10 Mint Leaves Plus Stems (including garnish sprigs)

     To start, simply take 2 cups of sugar, add 1 cup of water, place in a medium saucepan, and bring up to heat over a medium flame.  Don’t use high heat.  All you want to do is fully dissolve the sugar.  Once that happens, remove the simple syrup from the heat and set aside.  It needs to cool down to room temperature before making any mint juleps.  If you’d like to ramp up the mint flavor, here is a great opportunity to do so.  Grab a good 4-6 sprigs of fresh mint and add it to the hot simple syrup while it cools.  Much like steeping tea, you’ll infuse the simple syrup with even more mint flavor.  You can also make this well in advance (days if need be) and reserve in the refrigerator.  It’ll be ready when you are.  Remember, you can vary the sweetness you desire with just a bit more or less simple syrup.  Play with it to see what works for your tastes. For a word of caution: LESS IS MORE!

Step 1. Place 5-6 mint leaves in bottom of glass or cup of choice.

Step 2. Pour a teaspoon or less of mint simple syrup over mint leaves. 

Step 3. “Muddle” gently with a muddler or wooden spoon for 5-10 seconds until glass is fragrant with Mint oils and mint is coated with simple syrup. Be gentle while muddling! Do not overly smash, bruise or break up the mint. This would release acidic, off flavors. Use the muddle spoon to brush the mint syrup and leaves in a circular fashion along the sides of the glass. Think of it as though you are painting the interior walls of your cup with the mint leaves and oil mixture.

Step 4. Add just a touch of ice and half a jigger of bourbon. Muddle them to start the dilution process.

Step 5. Add powdered ice right to top of the glass (it should be heaping over the brim). Shape and round it with the palm of your hand (the top should look like a snow cone).

Step 6. Pour remaining amount of bourbon (2.5 oz) over ice. (Ice will cave in a bit. This is normal).

Step 7. Add 1 teaspoon (or less) of mint syrup over ice. Be conservative.

Step 8. Lay the garnish sprig of mint in the flat palm of your hand. Smack it with the other hand. (Just like clapping) This will aid in releasing the aroma of mint. 

Step 9. Garnish with Mint Sprig and a cut plastic straw one-inch above the rim. This will bring your nose closer to the cocktail and fragrant mint. Insert straw into the center of the mint garnish.

Step 10. (Optional) Dust mint and ice with confectionary sugar. This gives the completed beverage a finished look of freshly powered snow.

Step 11. Enjoy!



      

 

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Willett Pot Still Reserve Single Barrel









Bourbon Review #9: Willett Pot Still Reserve - Single Barrel 
Category: Grey Zone 

Price: $45



Availability: Year Round, Everywhere

Proof: 94, 47% abv

Mashbill: No statement- Standard

Age: 8-10 Years 

Distillery: K.B.D. (Kentucky Bourbon Distillers LTD.) Bardstown, KY




     The KBD (Kentucky Bourbon Distillers) Company is currently producing bourbons such as Pure Kentucky XO, Willett, Noah’s Mill, Rowan’s Creek, Old Bardstown, Johnny Drum and Kentucky Vintage. While many of these bourbons are getting great reviews, I get the impression that casual bourbon customers are not taking the KBD Company very seriously.

     There are several misconceptions regarding KBD. These include: 1. KBD is a new Company. 2. KBD is a large, decentralized, corporate company. 3. KBD won’t release the sourcing locations for their bourbon; therefore, they must be hiding something. I will try to shed some light on these misconceptions in the previous listed order.

     1. Folks think KBD is a new company due to the facelift that it is undergoing. KBD also recently placed some new brands on the market. What most folks don’t realize, is that KBD’s is a small, family owned operation. It’s roots are rich regarding Kentucky Straight Bourbon with a heritage dating back to the late 1800’s. If you have the time and the interest, I would recommend reading the history of the Willet Company at the following link.

http://www.kentuckybourbonwhiskey.com/willett-story.html

     2. KBD has and will continue to source bourbon from other distilleries until their own juice is aged and market ready. This does not label them as a decentralized company. Though they source from several KY Distilleries, they are centrally located in Bardstown, KY. This has always been the location of the old Willett Distillery.

     3. Serious bourbon consumers want to know everything about the bourbon that they purchase. Most Distilleries make great efforts to inform their customers about every aspect of the distillation and aging process. KBD’s (Old Willett) distillery has been out of commission for decades. The current generation of the Willett family has been working very hard to restore the old Willett Distillery to its full operating potential.

     By legal contract, KBD cannot release the distilleries that they source their bourbon from. They have nothing to hide. It’s just a legal stipulation for situations regarding any company sourcing bourbon from other non-related companies. Does this mean that the current lineups of KBD brands are sub par? Not in the least! Because KBD is a small, family owned business, they can be very selective of the bourbon that they source. Heaven Hill is located just a mile down the road from KBD. Logically, this would make for a convenient sourcing location. Although this is likely true, other distilleries remain anonymous.    

     On January 18th 2012, members of the Willett family and company employees fired up the stills in an effort to once again produce KBD juice for the world. Bourbon takes a minimum of four years of aging before its fully matured and ready to be bottled. This means that we won’t likely see KBD juice on the market until 2016 at the earliest. In the mean time, don’t be afraid to pick up their brands. Jim Murray gave Willett Pot Still Family Reserve Single Barrel a 95 out of 100 rating. Jason Pile has also given their products consistently high ratings.  


                                    The newly renovated Willett Distillery in Bardstown, KY.

     







     Overall: Willett Single Barrel is another great example of single barrel bourbon. I’m starting to notice a pattern with these nicer expressions of single barrels. I think they make for some of the most balanced bourbons on the market. This may be due to the fact that more control is applied when dealing with the juice of a single barrel.

     The flavors in this expression are warm, soft, round, rich and buttery. There is a hearty presence of sweet dry corn that serves to round out the mix. I would say that the corn dominates the rye, while remaining very balanced. This is a beautiful expression of bourbon. Perhaps it’s a little more than I would like to spend for a ”go-to” bourbon. That’s why I have marked it in my “gray zone” category. Nonetheless, it’s a very nice expression, and it’s got me curious to try some of the other KBD offerings! The Colonel gives it a solid 8 out of 10.  



  






Monday, March 17, 2014

Parker's Heritage Single Barrel 2013 Promise of Hope





Bourbon Review #8: Parker's Heritage Single Barrel 2013 Promise of Hope
Category: Boutique 

Price: $95

Availability: Limited Annual (Fall) Release 

Proof: 96, 48% a.b.v.

Mashbill: No Statement

Age: 10 Years  

Distillery: Heaven Hill, Bardstown, Kentucky




     Heaven Hill in Bardstown, KY produces some great whiskies. These include, Even Williams, Elijah Craig, Old Fitzgerald, Rittenhouse Rye and many more. Like many other distilleries, H. H. has jumped on the premium bourbon train that’s sweeping the globe. Their contribution to the boutique bourbon craze is Parkers Heritage. This label fits the profile of other limited released bourbons in that it is expensive, hard to find and released in small quantity.

     This is the 7th year Parkers Heritage has been released. Each year it’s an entirely different expression, chosen by Heaven Hill’s Master Distillers, Parker and Craig Beam. This is a rundown of all seven releases.

Parker’s Heritage Collection 1-7
       PHC1 – 10 Year Bourbon, Cask Strength
       PHC2 – 27 Year Bourbon, 96 Proof
       PHC3 – Golden Anniversary, 100 Proof
       PHC4 – Wheated 10 Year, Cask Strength
       PHC5 – 10 Year Bourbon, Cognac Cask, 100 Proof
       PHC6 – Master Distiller’s Blend of Mashbills, Cask Strength
       PHC7 – “Promise of Hope” 10 Year Single Barrel

     Father and son team Parker and Craig have consistently turned out some wonderful expressions of bourbon over the last seven years! This years release is called “Promise of Hope”. Parker has recently been diagnosed with ALS. The concept behind this years release is that $20.00 from each bottle sold will be donated to the ALS Promise Fund. Its basically premium bourbon that is sold to support a wonderful cause. The Colonel thinks this is a great idea!

     Most limited edition bourbons these days try to offer something unique and exotic. The goal is to put something on the market in very limited quantity that differs from the normative bourbon concept. In other words, the goal with these limited release bourbons is to knock your socks off. For example, The B. T. Antique Collection offers several very old barrel strength whiskies, with unique mashbills. Four Roses has put a lot of thought into their limited edition lines, featuring their completely original multiple yeast approach. Then you have the Pappy concept, offered as a very old, super premium, wheated bourbon. With so much out there to choose from, the bar has been set ridiculously high for any limited edition bourbon! Lets face it…. there has never been such anticipation for high-end bourbons! 

     That said, the P.H. 2013 release could easily get lost in the shuffle of other fall releases. After all, its got a very normal mashbill, its only 10 years old, its not coming from Heaven Hill’s pre-fire stock and its not barrel strength. So, what makes it special? Folks, the Colonel is here to tell you that this is classical, no frills bourbon, done right! This expression is making a statement that you don’t have to be exotic to be fantastic! 

     This is a short video clip, recently taken of master distiller Parker Beam.                    








Parker's H. 2013 from Graham Sparkman on Vimeo.




     Overall: The P. H. 2013 reminds me of a more sophisticated version of the Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel. It’s all those classic, core bourbon flavors (vanilla, cinnamon and oak), with a slightly longer than moderate finish. The flavors are stunningly balanced and well concentrated in the mouth. If someone stopped me on the street and said, what is the best example of extremely nice, classic bourbon? I would point them to this expression. The Colonel ranks it in the #5 spot on my top five favorite boutique bourbons. I give it an 8-9 out of 10 overall. 


Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Basil Hayden's Small Batch






Bourbon Review #7: Basil Hayden's Small Batch
Category: Go-to

Price: $35



Availability: Year Round, Everywhere

Proof: 80, 40% a.b.v.

Mashbill: double the percentage of rye (18% rye +) for a typical bourbon

Age: "Artfully Aged" This makes the Colonel laugh!  

Distillery: Kentucky Springs Distilling Co. Clermont Frankfort, KY (Owned by Jim Beam)




   The Colonel came home after a long day of work to find a quiet house. The kids had been put to bed, the lights were turned down, and I was glad to be able to finally relax. I walked into the kitchen to find a bottle of Basil Hayden's on the counter with a hand written note from the Colonel's wife. "Dear Colonel, Thanks so much for all your hard work. Love, The Colonel's wife, XXXXXOOOOO". 

     It’s the small surprises that make life interesting and fun. Well, that's how I came by my bottle of Basil Hayden's. In order to set the stage for this weeks review, let’s have a deeper look into this brand.
     
     The History: The Basil Hayden's bourbon brand is named in honor of Basil Hayden, Sr., who was a Maryland Catholic that led a group of twenty-five Catholic families from Maryland into what is now Nelson County, Kentucky (near Bardstown) in 1785. This area is home to many of the famous bourbon brands, including Jim Beam. There Hayden donated the land for the first Catholic Church west of the Alleghenies and the first Catholic Church in what is now the Commonwealth of Kentucky.


     Hayden was also a distiller. He used a larger amount of rye in his mash when compared to most other bourbons. Later, Hayden's grandson Raymond B. Hayden founded a distillery in Nelson County and named his label "Old Grand-Dad" in honor of his grandfather. The picture on the bottle was copied from a rendering of Basil Sr.'s likeness.



     Today: Basil Hayden’s Bourbon is a part of Jim Beam’s Small Batch collection, which includes Knob Creek Small Batch, Baker’s 107, and Booker’s. Basil Hayden’s is the lightest bodied and highest rye recipe of the four, with as much as double the rye grain content. It’s by far my favorite of the Jim Beam products in this line.

     Bourbon connoisseurs can get a little snobby when it comes to anything associated with the Jim Beam name. I think that this is a shame. Basil Hayden’s is a perfect example of a truly unique expression of bourbon. Honestly, I don’t have anything in my pantry that taste like it.   

     I define it as a top shelf, mass produced bourbon. It’s price has a high degree of fluctuation, ranging from the low 30’s to the low 40’s. For this reason, I have trouble determining its categorical placement. I have found that more often than not, it will range on the lower side of the spectrum. Thus, I have decided to list it as ”go-to” bourbon.

      

     Overall: This is a very interesting expression of bourbon due to the combination of low proof and high rye. If the proof were higher, it would smother the delicate notes, produced by the high rye content. The folks at Jim Beam really hit the bull's eye with this concept.

     It’s perhaps the most accessible bourbon I have ever tasted. It’s playful, dainty, feminine and yet complex. If you’re looking to expand your pantry, you should consider including a bottle of Basil Hayden’s. It’s very unique among other brands. Because of its accessibility, I would recommend it to folks who are newer to the bourbon world. The Colonel gives it a 7-8 out of 10! 


        




    


Saturday, February 15, 2014

Four Roses Small Batch 2013 Limited Edition








Bourbon Review #6: Four Roses Small Batch 2013 Limited Edition
Category: Boutique



Price: $100



Availability: Limited Annual (Fall) Release



Proof: 103.2, 51.6 %abv (Barrel Strength)



Mashbill: OBSV-18 Years, OBSK-13 Years, OESK-13 Years (Three separate recipes)

Age: 13 to 18 years (depending on the barrel)



Distillery: Four Roses, Lawrenceburg, KY

     There are three things you need to know in order to appreciate what an incredible bourbon company Four Roses (F. R.) is. 1. The History 2. The man who is Jim Rutledge 3. The magic of the yeast. I’ll walk you through it.


     1. The History: (A true come back story): Four roses is a brand of Kentucky Straight Bourbon that was started by founder Paul Jones Jr. in 1884. Jones moved his thriving business to Louisville, Kentucky where he opened an office in a section of historic Main Street called, "Whiskey Row."

                                                                Paul Jones Jr.

      In 1922, the Paul Jones Company purchased the Frankfort Distilling Company, one of only six distilleries granted permission to operate through prohibition to produce bourbon for medicinal purposes. In the years under Paul's direction, sales of the bourbon flourished and Four Roses grew to be America’s number one selling brand of Kentucky Straight Bourbon. 

                   Above photo: 1928 F.R. as a prescription only, medicinal whisky



     Four Roses experienced a transition when Seagram purchased the brand along with the Frankfort Distilling Co in 1943.  At the close of the 1950's, bourbon sales in the US plummeted. For this reason, Seagram made the decision to discontinue Four Roses as Kentucky Straight Bourbon to an American market. During this time, blended whisky was actually more popular than KY Straight Bourbon, and for some strange reason considered to be a premium product.

                                                    1935 Pre Seagram advertisement.

1936 Pre Seagram advertisement. 


     Lets take a moment to discuss what blended whisky is. At that time a blended whiskey was most commonly an aged whiskey blended with Grain Neutral Spirits (GNS). Think of it as light whiskey or whiskey-flavored vodka as some describe it. The real Four Roses Bourbon was still being distilled in Lawrenceburg Kentucky, but Americans could taste not a drop of it for over forty years! All of it was for export only to Asia and Europe, where bourbon was experiencing a rise in popularity. The “USA version” of Four Roses was distilled out of Indiana and Maryland as “grade A”, and eventually bottom shelf “grade B” blended whiskey. To quote F. R. Master Distiller Jim Rutledge, “The quality of the stuff they were selling was a rotgut whiskey. It was just awful.”

     2. The man who is Jim Rutledge: Four Rose’s greatest hero is Jim Rutledge. He grew up in Louisville, KY. Jim started working for Seagram in the late 60’s. He, above all people, worked relentlessly to try and get the management at Seagram to return their premium bourbon to an American market. Despite his best efforts, he was turned away time after time.

Above Photo: Jim Rutledge
     
     During the 1990’s Seagram made some bad financial decisions, and ended up going out of business. Four Roses Bourbon was alive and well in Japan. It was the best selling American Whiskey in Asia. Kirin, one of the largest breweries in Japan, was the distributor for Four Roses Bourbon in the Asian market. They knew all too well what a great product Four Roses was, and they did not want to lose it.


     In 2001, Kirin purchased Four Roses. Meetings that followed gave Jim Rutledge one last audience to plead his case, (paraphrase) “Let us get rid of this blended whiskey from the U.S. shelves and bring Four Roses Bourbon back”. Jim was given the answer he had been waiting on for decades.




     Kirin said yes to the man that had waited so long to restore the Four Roses brand to prominence in the U.S. In 2002, Jim and his team proceeded forward with that task in earnest. They recalled all of the U.S. Four Roses Blended Whiskey from the shelves and dumped it!  

     When the new F. R. first hit the shelves as “the return of America’s favorite bourbon”, folks were skeptical. This was due to decades of negative associations. The brand conjured up images of homeless, boxcar-winos. The transition did not happen overnight.

     Over time bourbon connoisseurs, the world over began to see F. R. in a new light. In 2004, F. R. introduced their Single Barrel line. This product is now the top selling single barrel bourbon in the state of Kentucky, a testament to the quality of the product and the power of the brand today. F.R. has been on a roll wining awards both nationally and internationally. Now, Thanks to the hard work and dedication of Jim Rutledge, it’s considered to be one of the finest Kentucky Straight Bourbon Companies in the world.    

     F.R. created the Limited Edition concept around five years ago. This has grown to become one of the highest anticipated releases of the year, earning it the nickname " The B.T. Antique Collection Killer." The collection is made up of two expressions: 1. Small batch and 2. Single Barrel. As with many limited release bourbons, each year’s release is a different expression from the year before. Part of the reason that these bourbons are so unbelievably good has to do with their unique mashbill. The subject of this review is the 2013 L.R. Small Batch.

     As with all “small batch” bourbons, the master distiller will hand select separate barrels that he feels will exemplify the best of there given mashbills. The barrels are then married together to create a truly unique expression. If you scroll up and read my mashbill section, you will see some cryptic coding. I will briefly explain: 

     Each of the recipes is identified by a four-letter code, but only two of those letters describe the makeup of the recipe. The first letter is always O, which designates the bourbon as having been made at the Four Roses Distillery (It is assumed that these codes date back to when the distillery operated under its previous name, Old Prentice). The second letter will either be E (75% corn, 20% rye, 5% malted barley) or B (60% corn, 35% rye, 5% malted barley). Recipes with a higher percentage of corn will typically produce sweeter bourbon, while those with a higher percentage of rye will usually result in a bourbon with more spice character. The third letter is always S, which designates the distillate as “straight”, meaning it came off the still at 80% abv or less.

     3. The magic of the yeast: I think it really gets interesting when we get to the fourth letter. This letter referrers to the yeast strain. Let me just say that to my knowledge, no other distillery is doing anything remotely close to this. I’m speaking about combining different yeast strains from different mashbills to create an ultimate small batch expression.  F. R. has a total of ten different mashbills and five different yeast strains that they can mix and mingle. When you couple that with age, warehouse location and so on, The possibilities are endless! In the case of the 2013 Small Batch Limited Release, the “V” in the recipe refers to the distillery’s fruitier, creamier yeast. “K” refers to a spicier strain of yeast. These whiskeys were “mingled” together to create a harmonious blend. The results are something truly epic.



   

     Overall: This is truly an unparalleled, master-class bourbon, offered at the perfect proof! It’s big and bold, while maintaining a rare elegance and sophistication unmatched in the bourbon world. Its unique notes of vanilla custard and rich cherry cordial balance the smoke infused oaky finish. The Colonel gives this bourbon a 10 out of 10! Christmas in a glass! Shear genius!

   

     



Each of the ten recipes is identified by a four letter code, but only two of those letters describe the makeup of the recipe. The first letter is always O, which designates the bourbon as having been made at the Four Roses Distillery (I assume these codes date back to when the distillery operated under its previous name, Old Prentice). The third letter is always S, which designates the distillate as “straight”, meaning it came off the still at 80% abv or less (all Four Roses whiskey is “straight” these days, but under Seagram’s ownership there would have been plenty of whiskey floating around which didn’t qualify for the “straight” designation, making this a more relevant bit of information).
The second letter identifies the mash bill. It will either be E (75% corn, 20% rye, 5% malted barley) or B (60% corn, 35% rye, 5% malted barley). Recipes with a higher percentage of corn will typically produce a sweeter bourbon, while those with a higher percentage of rye will usually result in a bourbon showing more of that grain’s unique spicy character.
The fourth letter identifies the yeast strain:
V – delicate fruitiness  savory, complex, slightly fruity, exceptionally well-balanced classic bourbon
K – spicy  full-bodied, slow-aging, with a particular spicy quality distinct from that of rye grain
O – rich fruitiness  plump, juicy and rounded with red fruit tones, complex and long in flavor
Q – floral  exceptionally floral with almost acacia-like tones, delicate and highly aromatic
F – herbal     


   




Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Evan WIlliams White Label B.I.B.




Bourbon Review #5: Evan Williams (White Label) Bottled-In- Bond
Category: Go-to 



Price: $18 per one liter bottle 

Availability: Year Round, Everywhere (harder to find than E. W. Black Label)



Proof: 100, A.V.B. 50%

Mashbill: Same as Black Label and 10 Year Single Barrel 

Age: No Age Description 

Distillery: Haven Hill, Bardstown, KY




     Evan Williams, or E & W, as I like to call it, was the favorite “go-to” bourbon for both of my grandfathers. The most common expression within this brand is the black label. In fact, it’s the 2nd most popular bourbon in the world, just under Jim Beam.

     The White Label expression is a little harder to find, but in my opinion, better in quality. What is the difference between the two? From what I can tell, there isn’t a lot. I think they share a similar, if not identical, mashbill and age. The main difference is that the White Label is a “Bottled in Bond” bourbon, or “B.I.B.”

     I’ll take a moment to describe what this means. From the mid to late 1800’s, bourbon was becoming increasingly popular across this country. At that time, there were no guidelines as to what constituted bourbon. In the days of traveling minstrel shows and shysters pedaling snake oil, folks were putting all kinds of things into whisky and calling it "bourbon". They were doing this primarily to cut cost and turn out a fast product.

     In 1897, the US Government stepped in and came up with some guidelines as to what you had to have in your bottle in order to call it “bourbon”. Much like the German beer law of 1516, B.I.B. was put in to effect to protect the interest of official bourbon distilling companies. This is also where we get certain terminology such as "straight", as in Kentucky “Straight” Bourbon. 

     Without giving you all the boring details, this is what you need to know about B.I.B. bourbons, they are all 100 proof, they have to be run off the still from one season (as opposed to dumped into holding tanks prior to aging), they have to be a minimum of four years old and they have to be aged in a US Government sanctioned warehouse.

     These practices are antiquated by today’s standards. So, as one would imagine, B.I.B. bourbons have been largely discontinued. The few that are still around are retro throwbacks to a day gone by.



   

     Overall: This makes for a great pantry staple bourbon, with a cool retro vibe. When compared to most bourbons in this price range, the flavors are far more concentrated in the mouth, partly due to the elevated proof. For these reasons, I like it much better compared to its 86 proof “Black Label” brother.

     Many folks would overlook this expression and dismiss it as a cheap, bottom shelf bourbon. To quote Jason Pile, “we know better”! I would give it a 6 out of 10. The Colonel says, “If you can find it, buy it!”    


           

Saturday, January 18, 2014

George T. Stagg: 2013 Release






Bourbon Review #4: George T. Stagg 2013 Release

Category: Boutique

Price: $80

Availability: Limited Annual (Fall) Release

Proof: 128.2, 64.1% avb (uncut and unfiltered)

Mashbill: B.T. #1


Age: 15 years

Distillery: Buffalo Trace


     

     George T. Stagg is the flagship of the Buffalo Trace "Antique Collection". This collection is made up of five premium bourbons, which include: 1. George T. Stagg, 2. William Larue Weller, 3. Egle Rare 17 Year, 4. Sazerac Rye 18 Year and 5. Thomas H. Handy Sazerac. The collection is released once a year, in the fall, with a very small allocation. Like many limited release bourbons, the Antique Collection is normally delivered directly into the hands of the customers on a waiting list. In most cases, the collection has come and gone within a matter of minutes for the entire year. 

     The 2013 George T. Stagg marks the 14th offering of this annual release. Each year the proof is slightly different, although it is always uncut and unfiltered. This years offering went into the barrels in the spring of 1997 (the year I graduated high school). It was aged in Warehouses I, K and Q and weighs in at 128.2 proof. 

     2013 is the first year that the proof has dropped into the 120's since 2004. The reason for the lower proof is due to the location of the barrels on lower floors.  “We sample many barrels throughout the year to find the best ones to create George T. Stagg.  It just so happens this year, most of the barrels had been stored on lower floors.  The temperature remains cooler down low where it balances the mature flavors from the wood, and in turn, the proof climbs slowly from the entry proof.  The quintessential George T. Stagg taste is there – a big, bold whiskey that is easy to sip,” said Harlen Wheatley, master distiller.  Although still highly allocated, Buffalo Trace did begin to start putting more barrels away back in 1997 for future George T. Stagg releases.


    
    Harlen Wheatley, master distiller at Buffalo Trace

     Who was George T. Stagg? George T. Stagg was born December 19, 1835, in Garrard County, Kentucky. While little is known of his early years, the impact his adult life had on the bourbon industry was quite impressive.
     Working as a whiskey salesman in St. Louis, he had the good fortune of teaming up with bourbon icon E.H. Taylor, Jr. Together they built the most dominant American distillery of the 19th century. A leading industry expert at the time declared the Distillery “one plus ultra of its class,” the best of the best.
     Stagg’s salesmanship and financial acumen helped build the Distillery into one of the world’s leading bourbon producers. In 1904, the Distillery was rechristened to bear Stagg’s name, a title that was maintained for nearly a century.
     Today, Buffalo Trace Distillery strives to carry on the tradition of innovation and excellence of one of its famous forefathers. In 2000, the Distillery was honored with the prestigious “Distillery of the Year” designation by Whisky Advocate, the culmination of Stagg’s work, begun nearly 150 years ago. (History sourced from Buffalo Trace)



  I was able to obtain a personal copy of the official letter from Buffalo Trace describing this year's release of George T. Stagg. It provides a more thorough breakdown of this year's expression. On a personal note, the 2013 Stagg comes full circle for me, as it is a Kentucky product that makes use of grains from both North Dakota and Minnesota. (See the recipe section on the back side of the letter)




   

     Overall: This is one of the most highly sought-after bourbons on the planet!  Its a bruiser of a bourbon, but don't scoff at its elevated proof as mere "novelty". It's full of rich and complex flavors that take time unfolding. This bourbon has both grit and grace. A truly decadent pour! I would not recommend this one for the novice, or the faint of heart. However, if your a seasoned bourbon connoisseur, set your sights on this expression!

     On a scale of 1-10, I would give the 2013 George T. Stagg a solid 9! This is a true gentleman's Kentucky Straight Bourbon! If you can get your hands on a bottle (easier said than done), buy it quickly! I'll leave you with a quote from Buffalo Trace, "Sip it slowly and ponder the mysteries of the universe."