Whiskey Review #13: Van Winkle 13 Year Old Kentucky
Straight Rye Whiskey
Category: Boutique
Price: $70
Availability: Almost nowhere
Proof: 95.6, 47.8% abv
Age: 13 years (although this expression is probably pushing
19.)
Mashbill: an undefined marriage of Old Medley and Bernheim
Rye
Distillery: Buffalo Trace, Frankfort, Kentucky/ Old Medley
and Bernheim
Every million years or so, you can stand on a mountaintop in Greenland
and hear the magnetic frequency of the northern lights zing overhead; their
brilliant, playful, color-display flair across the sky above. You’re taking all
of this in while simultaneously appreciating the stunning view of Saturn as it
aligns on the low, pink horizon. The extremely rare northern migration of an
African Blue Crane softly lands in the rocky bay below.
Am I the only person who thinks it’s special that my 13th
review happens to be a 13-year-old product? I’m hard pressed to think of any
other 13-year-old whiskey on the market. Maybe its because certain brands
believed that the “13 year” mark would be unlucky in the minds of superstitious
folks. I could see how this would incline them to make 10, 12 and 15-year old
products in order to keep sales up. In all seriousness, the Van Winkle 13 Year Old Rye, is anything
but unlucky! It seems fitting that this rare gym would fall just perfectly into
this 13th review spot. This extremely elusive whiskey is nearly
perfect in every way!
While visiting my homeland of Kentucky, I had the opportunity to taste
several expressions from my good friend Dr. Joel Kilty’s pantry. The V.W.
13-rye was one of the highlights of the evening! To make this review even more
special, this bottle was hand signed for Dr. Kilty by Julian Van Winkle III!
According to Joel, when he showed up in line to have Julian sign his bottle,
Julian’s response was “Where in the world did you get this bottle of 13 rye?” “Danville, Kentucky, ” he answered. Julian responded with, “Ah those folks
in Danville don’t know a thing about whiskey!” For the record, Danville is
where Julian’s grandfather (Pappy) graduated from college, at Centre College. I
just think it makes this story all the more funny!
It is no mystery that the Van Winkle 13 rye is sourced, however when you
start to dig into the particulars, it gets ambiguous. I’m not going to make
claims for information that I don’t have. Unlike the other Van Winkle products,
the 13-year rye (actually closer to 19 years old) is a combination of Medley
(Owensboro, Kentucky) and Cream of Kentucky (old Bernheim in Louisville) rye
whiskey. In regards to the mashbill, the rye sits close to the legal minimum of
51%, with a hefty dose of corn at slightly less than 30%. This would explain
the softer, sweeter, more rounded quality.
When I travel, I keep a small whiskey diary with me. The following
review was recorded in my diary:
Van Winkle 13 year
Old Rye Whiskey:
Color: A Dark, rustic, amber.
Nose: Candied granny smith apples, dipped in caramel. The nose is well
structured with a hint of smoke and dry, rye spice.
Palate: In order (from start to finish) Sweet Minnesota corn, white
pepper, caramel, dry smoke, lemon zest, buttered vanilla, oak, candied
cinnamon.
Viscosity: chewy, sticky and somewhat thick.
Finish: Very long. This is akin to all other post 10-year-old, Van
Winkle products.
Overall: The corn is working well to add a touch of sweet roundness,
while simultaneously softening the dry, spicy rye notes. The structure and
overall quality of this expression immediately puts you in mind of the other
Van Winkle products. It’s certainly unique among other rye whiskies. I would
say it is sweeter and softer than most with a killer long finish! In fact, it
has the longest finish of any rye I have ever had! The Colonel’s score: 9 out of 10! This one’s
going to make the Colonel’s top five favorite boutique list! (Replacing
Parker’s Heritage in the #5 spot) This means that there are currently three Van
Winkle products on that list of five. It just goes to show you what I think in
general about the Van Winkle whiskies!
