George T. Stagg: 2013 Release

Bourbon Review #4: George T. Stagg 2013 Release

Category: Boutique

Price: $80

Availability: Limited Annual (Fall) Release

Proof: 128.2, 64.1% avb (uncut and unfiltered)

Mashbill: B.T. #1

Age: 15 years

Distillery: Buffalo Trace

     

     George T. Stagg is the flagship of the Buffalo Trace "Antique Collection". This collection is made up of five premium bourbons, which include: 1. George T. Stagg, 2. William Larue Weller, 3. Egle Rare 17 Year, 4. Sazerac Rye 18 Year and 5. Thomas H. Handy Sazerac. The collection is released once a year, in the fall, with a very small allocation. Like many limited release bourbons, the Antique Collection is normally delivered directly into the hands of the customers on a waiting list. In most cases, the collection has come and gone within a matter of minutes for the entire year. 

     The 2013 George T. Stagg marks the 14th offering of this annual release. Each year the proof is slightly different, although it is always uncut and unfiltered. This years offering went into the barrels in the spring of 1997 (the year I graduated high school). It was aged in Warehouses I, K and Q and weighs in at 128.2 proof. 

     2013 is the first year that the proof has dropped into the 120's since 2004. The reason for the lower proof is due to the location of the barrels on lower floors.  “We sample many barrels throughout the year to find the best ones to create George T. Stagg.  It just so happens this year, most of the barrels had been stored on lower floors.  The temperature remains cooler down low where it balances the mature flavors from the wood, and in turn, the proof climbs slowly from the entry proof.  The quintessential George T. Stagg taste is there – a big, bold whiskey that is easy to sip,” said Harlen Wheatley, master distiller.  Although still highly allocated, Buffalo Trace did begin to start putting more barrels away back in 1997 for future George T. Stagg releases.

    
    Harlen Wheatley, master distiller at Buffalo Trace

     Who was George T. Stagg? George T. Stagg was born December 19, 1835, in Garrard County, Kentucky. While little is known of his early years, the impact his adult life had on the bourbon industry was quite impressive.

     Working as a whiskey salesman in St. Louis, he had the good fortune of teaming up with bourbon icon E.H. Taylor, Jr. Together they built the most dominant American distillery of the 19th century. A leading industry expert at the time declared the Distillery “one plus ultra of its class,” the best of the best.

     Stagg’s salesmanship and financial acumen helped build the Distillery into one of the world’s leading bourbon producers. In 1904, the Distillery was rechristened to bear Stagg’s name, a title that was maintained for nearly a century.

     Today, Buffalo Trace Distillery strives to carry on the tradition of innovation and excellence of one of its famous forefathers. In 2000, the Distillery was honored with the prestigious “Distillery of the Year” designation by Whisky Advocate, the culmination of Stagg’s work, begun nearly 150 years ago. (History sourced from Buffalo Trace)

  I was able to obtain a personal copy of the official letter from Buffalo Trace describing this year's release of George T. Stagg. It provides a more thorough breakdown of this year's expression. On a personal note, the 2013 Stagg comes full circle for me, as it is a Kentucky product that makes use of grains from both North Dakota and Minnesota. (See the recipe section on the back side of the letter)

   

     Overall: This is one of the most highly sought-after bourbons on the planet!  Its a bruiser of a bourbon, but don't scoff at its elevated proof as mere "novelty". It's full of rich and complex flavors that take time unfolding. This bourbon has both grit and grace. A truly decadent pour! I would not recommend this one for the novice, or the faint of heart. However, if your a seasoned bourbon connoisseur, set your sights on this expression!

     On a scale of 1-10, I would give the 2013 George T. Stagg a solid 9! This is a true gentleman's Kentucky Straight Bourbon! If you can get your hands on a bottle (easier said than done), buy it quickly! I'll leave you with a quote from Buffalo Trace, "Sip it slowly and ponder the mysteries of the universe."

The Colonel's Top 10 Best (and 1 worst) Whiskey List

     I'll start with my top five favorite "go-to" category. I'll rank them in order, from my #1 favorite, on down. All of these whiskies can be purchased for around or under $30 bucks. They can be found most anywhere. I wont say much about each label. I'll save that for the reviews. This list is subject to change, as I encounter new bourbons that may replace one of these expressions. I plan to retroactively update this list when this occurs. So, you might want to check back on this post in a few months to see if changes have been made. Also, all of these whiskies are ones that I have ether tried, or are in the queue to be reviewed.

#1. Four Roses Single Barrel $37

#2. High West Double Rye $32

#3. Elijah Craig 12 Year Small Batch $25

#4. Old Grand-Dad Bottled In Bond $19 (one liter)

#5. Evan Williams Bottled In Bond $19 (one liter)

     OK, and now on to my top five favorite boutique bourbons. The prices range from $140 to $70. All of these are hard to find, as they are released once a year in very small quantity.

#1. Four Roses 2013 Limited Release Small Batch Barrel Strength $100

#2. Old Rip Van Winkle "Pappy" Family Reserve 15 Year $100

                                                                

#3. Old Rip Van Winkle "Pappy" Family Reserve 20 Year $140

4. Orphan Barrel Collection- Lost Prophet 22 Year Old Bourbon $125

5. Van Winkle's Family Reserve 13 Year Old Rye Whiskey $70

     I thought that I would provide some contrast. I did have one terrible bourbon this year. It was the Cabin Still label. The reason that I picked it up was because it was originally distilled out of Stitzel Weller (one of my favorite, now out of operation, distilleries) It's a perfect example of what happens to an old world brand that gets farmed out, and ultimately becomes a cheap, bottom shelf bourbon. Despite a noteworthy history, nostalgia could not remedy the fact that modern Cabin Still just taste plum awful.

     In short it had a flavor like cheep maple syrup mixed with cough syrup. The viscosity was as thin as water. The alcohol was cheap and twangy. The only thing that I was happy about was that the finish was pretty much non existent. I really didn't want to go on tasting any more of this than I had to!

    

   

Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel

Bourbon Review #3: Elmor T. Lee Single Barrel 

Category: Go-To

Price: $32

Availability: Year Round, everywhere

Proof: 90, 45% avb

Mashbill: B.T. #2  (higher percentage of rye than the standard B.T. #1 mashbill)

Distillery: Buffalo Trace


     Up for my next review, is the Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel. I have compared several great go-to bourbons with this label. Despite there best efforts, none of them have been able to debunk Elmer T. Lee as my #1 go-to bourbon.  

     I believe that this bourbon is every bit as good as Blanton's, Eagle Rare, Basil Hayden among other top shelf verities. At $32 a bottle, it can be significantly less in price when compared to the above mentioned labels. There are other reasons for its title of #1 go-to, but we will get to those in a bit.

     Over a fifty year period, Kentucky native Elmer T. Lee, was an instrumental part in the development of the Buffalo Trace distillery. He started working there as a maintenance engineer 1949. He eventually worked his way up to become the plant manager, and then went on to be the plant's Master Distiller. In 1984, Mr. Lee introduced the world to it's first single barrel bourbon concept with the addition of Blanton's Single Barrel. Not long after that, Elmer himself was honored with his own single barrel namesake. Since that time, both labels have been recipients of the highest world wide acclaim and honors.   

     Let me take a moment to explain what singe barrel bourbon is for you folks that might not know. I'll oversimplify it in order to make a point. One barrel is used for the end product. Basically, the barrels that go into these expressions have not been married with other barrels. This differs from the way bourbon is typically mass produced. By contrast the more standard "large batch" method makes use of hundreds of barrels, by dumping them into holding tanks where they lie dormant until bottling.  

     Mr. Lee was very selective about the rick-house (barrel storing warehouse) aging facilities on the B.T. property. He felt as though rick-house C, I and K yielded a flavor profile that was unique to his single barrel concept. He also felt that certain floors within the rick-houses produced better results in quality control. This is due to the concept of heat rising. During the summer months in KY, the top floors experience higher amounts of heat, while the lower floors experience less. The reverse is true during the winter months. Because of this Elmer felt that the middle floors were experiencing less dramatic fluctuations in temperature and humidity. He selected these middle floors for his premium lines of bourbon as they were capable of consistently producing better aged products.

       
     Mr. Lee retired from Buffalo Trace in 1985. He continued to serve as an ambassador and Master Distiller Emeritus. His work and legacy have been honored by his induction into the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of fame in 2001, his receipt of the Life Time Achievement Award from both Whisky Advocate and Whisky Magazine and other recognitions.

     Mr. Lee passed away in the summer of 2013 at the age of 93. He was reportedly serving at Buffalo Trace and tasting barrels until his death. Shortly after his passing, I noticed a spike in sales of his label. I feel that this was due to the hype surrounding his death in the bourbon world. Buffalo Trace has assured me that they are making great efforts to maintain his line of bourbon with the upmost care and attention to detail. Despite his passing, the Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel line will prevail into the future.

     E.T. Lee is not part of a limited release, and it is available with full distribution year-round. However, It can be a little tricky to find. If you would like to pick up a bottle of this expression, but can't find it in your location, I would recommend the following; Find a liquor store that carries Buffalo Trace products, talk to the store manager, and let him/her know that you would like to place an order for this label.       

     

     
     Overall: this label has all of the flavors that you would come to expect in a nice bourbon. What makes it so special? The flavors are so tightly concentrated. I honestly had a hard time separating them on the pallet. 


     Why didn't the other expressions measure up? It's splitting hairs, but the Even Williams 10 year lacked concentration, the Elijah Craig 12 year had a bit to much barrel acidity, the AAA 10 year became discontinued, and the Weller 12 year was a bit on the sweet side while lacking maturity (despite its 12 years in the barrel). And so on....you get the idea. 

     The Colonel's score is a solid 8. Takeaway: BUY THIS IF YOU CAN, WHILE YOU CAN!!!  

     

Ancient Ancient Age 10 Year

Bourbon Review #2: Ancient Ancient Age 10 Year

Category: Boutique

Price: $18

Availability: (previously in Kentucky only) Discontinued

Proof: 86, 43% avb

Mashbill: B.T. #2  (higher percentage of rye than the standard B.T. #1 mashbill)

Distillery: Buffalo Trace



     Up for my second review is the Ancient Ancient Age 10 year. And no, thats not a typo. Despite the redundancy, they chose this name for the label because it's....well, more ancient than ancient. Super ancient things tend to go extinct, and that is also sadly true of this label.

      The A.A. brand has been around for the better part of sixty years. It's now being distilled out of Buffalo Trace with three offerings (soon to be two); 1. Ancient Age 2. Ancient Ancient Age 10 Star and 3. Ancient Ancient Age 10 Year. The labels on the bottles look very similar, but the juice inside is quite different. Many people have mistaken the 10 Star for the 10 Year.

     The mashbill used in the AAA 10 year is reported to be the same #2 mashbill used in some of the higher end Buffalo Trace bourbons such as Elmer T. Lee, Rock Hill Farms and Blantons. Don't be fooled by the price tag. Though it suggests "budget bourbon", Jim Murray of the Whisky Bible gave it a 95 out of 100 in 2011. He also said that it was his favorite go to bourbon when he lived in KY.  Jason Pile of Sourmash Manifesto placed it in his superb/outstanding category. Buffalo Trace lists it as there "cult bourbon".

     This bourbon was never distributed outside of Kentucky. My partner in crime sent me this bottle as a Christmas gift shortly after it's discontinuation from Buffalo Trace. There have been circulating rumors for some time that Buffalo Trace was removing this label from the A.A brand. Up until recently, these rumors have been unfounded.

     I decided to cut to the chase and call Bufflao Trace myself. I spoke with Nan Harnice, the Consumer Affairs Associate. She informed me that it had recently been discontinued, and that Buffalo Trace had no plans to bring it back. Reportedly, this decision was made for the purpose of reserving the barrels that would have gone to this expression for blending (small batch) with higher end labels.Upon further investigation, all of the major liquor stores in Central Kentucky had sold out. The cat was out of the bag, and people were buying up the very last of the AAA 10 Year. Fortunately, I was able to pull from some of my KY resources to obtain an extra bottle despite the fast growing extinction of this once cult classic.  

     Since we are on the topic of Ancient Age, I have a story for you. My father-in-law is a life-long fisherman. If you visit his apartment, it will become immediately evident to you upon arrival that he collects, and is passionate about, all things fishing. You would be hard pressed to find a square inch of wall space that is not adorned with mounted fish, vintage fishing equipment brands and even fish pomes.....No Joke! Knowing of my interest in bourbon, he gave me this vintage, Ancient Age plastic mounted bluegill advertisement/home bar decoration. I can't think of a better time to share this lovely gem of a find with you!

     During the course of this review, I changed the status of this bourbon no less than three times! It went from my "Go-To" category, to semi boutique (when I learned that it was only available in KY), to boutique (when I discovered that it had ben discontinued altogether). It's truly sad that this fine expression of bourbon is gone. Honestly, it's difficult to think of another bourbon that delivers as much complexity for the price. If it were sticking around, it would certainly compete for my #1 go-to spot.


   

     Overall: the AAA 10 Year is wonderfuly balanced from start to finish. Rating it on a scale of one to ten, Colonel's Score is between a 7 and an 8. Thats a full step up from last weeks review of the Weller 12 year. The thing that bumps it up a notch for me, is the unique, bright citrus notes both on the nose and pallet. My wife also tried this bourbon and she said, "this would be the perfect bourbon for a topical vacation"! It has a perfectly harmonious blend of sweet, spicy and fruity notes working beautifully together.

     I wish I could tell you that you could run out and grab a bottle, but your chances are slim to none. I'm only glad that I was able to discover and review it before its complete extinction. Ancient Ancient Age 10 Year, gone but not forgotten, R.I.P.


   

W. L. Weller 12 Year

   Bourbon review #1: W. L. Weller 12 Year

Category: "Boutique"

Price: $35

Availability: Annual release

Proof: 90, 45%avb

Mashbill: Wheated

Distillery: Buffalo Trace

     
     If ever I have put a bourbon on a pedestal, before even giving it a sip, it would be this one. This is due to the following factors;

     1. The History (sourced from Buffalo Trace): A true distilling pioneer, W.L. Weller is credited with being the first distiller to produce Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey using wheat instead of rye in the mash bill. Weller’s original “wheated bourbons” became extremely popular, with a softer, smoother taste. They were so popular, in fact, it’s been said that Weller was forced to put a green thumbprint on his invoices and barrels to ensure that customers were receiving the real deal.

     After serving in the War with Mexico as a member of the Louisville Brigade in the 1840s, Weller returned to Louisville to take part in a family tradition of whiskey distilling. After the introduction of his original wheated bourbon in 1849, Weller, along with his brother, founded a very successful bourbon trading company. Weller marketed his product with the slogan, “Honest Whiskey at an Honest Price.”

     Weller’s namesake company eventually went on to merge with Pappy Van Winkle’s A. Ph. Stitzel Distillery to form the Stitzel-Weller Distillery, becoming renowned for such brands as W.L. Weller, Old Fitzgerald, Rebel Yell and Cabin Still. During the 1960's, bourbon sales plummeted. Many of the once reputable, historic labels were farmed out, and eventually became cheap bottom shelf bourbons. For example, Old Crow, Rebel Yell, Cabin Still, among others. W. L. Weller is an exception. It is now being produced out of Buffalo Trace, with efforts to preserve its original quality.

     2. W. L. Weller 12 year is an old, wheated bourbon. This is a nich category within bourbons. Very few types of bourbon are being produced with a wheated mashbill at an age of post 10 years.

     3. Julian Van Winkle III, the face and pallet of the current line up of Van Winkle products, reported in an interview that he chooses Weller bourbon when he's not enjoying his own. This speaks volumes to me!

      If you’re a fan of the Van Winkle bourbons, it’s only natural to be curious about a bourbon like the W. L. Weller 12 year. After all, they both have nearly the same history, mashbill, age, contemporary distillery and quality control. So, what makes them different? It really comes down to warehouse location on the Buffalo Trace property. Now you can see why I was so excited to try this bourbon, and by extension placed it on a very high pedestal.
 

     Overall: even though I was a little disappointed that the Weller 12 didn’t deliver on the level of a “poor mans Pappy”, its still a very nice old, wheated bourbon. I would certainly recommend this bourbon, although it's getting harder and harder to find. Colonel's score 6-7 out of 10.   

 
        


   

Boutique Bourbon

     Over the last few years, I have really gotten into Kentucky Straight Bourbon. Growing up in KY, I always knew about the typical brands such as Makers Mark, Evan Williams and Woodford Reserve. However, I couldn't tell you the first thing about the history of bourbons, boutique bourbons or the difference between a wheater and a rye.

     That all changed one evening in Lexington, Kentucky, when my best friend invited me out to a nice restaurant to try a very special bourbon. The restaurant was Jonathan's at Gratz Park; well known to have one of the finest bourbon menus in the state of KY. We each ordered a pour of Old Rip Van Winkle, "Pappy 20 Year", Family Reserve, wheated bourbon.

     Above Photo: Chet Zoeller and the Jefferson Whisky portfolio tasting at Jonathan's restaurant.
   

     The moment I took the first sip, my eyes involuntarily closed and a huge grin crept up on my face. It was, quite possibly, the best thing I ever put in my mouth. Prior to this, I had no idea that bourbon could even come close to this level. This single encounter fueled a desire within me to learn, acquire, hunt down and collect all things "fine bourbon".

     A few months after this I moved to Fargo, North Dakota. I was a little sad to think that I would be living in a place where I could only acquire "run of the mill" bourbon. Little did I know that I would be moving to one of the greatest spots in the country for assembling a truly prestigious bourbon collection. Its counter intuitive, and I'll explain why.

   

     Twenty year ago, Fargo was a small, midwestern, agricultural town that grew into a mid size city of now 176,296. Because it's roots are agricultural, it lacks the upscale "food and drink" scene that one would come to expect in a city with a more cosmopolitan population. Geographically, Fargo is four hours west of Minneapolis, four hours south of Winnipeg, six hours east of the oil boom, and a few states north of the bourbon belt. Fargo has a large enough population to bring in good distributors. So, what does all of this mean? Basically, Fargo  is where you want to be come bourbon season.  It boils down to one fact; I just don't have to contend with a lot of competition in Fargo. Let me explain this in practical terms. My friend in Lexington might be on a waiting list of three to five-hundred people for a specific limited release! In Fargo/Moorhead, I'm on a list of 35 for that same release.

     Bourbon season, or "hunting season", as its often called, is that special time of year when we bourbon hunters get our game faces' on. This is a small window of time each year in the Fall, when limited release bourbons are distributed. If you wait until the Fall to try and obtain some of these highly prized labels, you've waited to late! Some of these bourbons do not even go to the store shelves.

     Each state is a little different, but let me explain the basic protocol.  The labels go from the distillery,  to the distributor, then on to a liquor store manager's office. The store manager will call folks that are on a waiting list (if you live in a state where they have a list system). Many stores won't hold these bourbons. It's a first come, first serve system. Depending on the allocation, its can be a one bottle to one customer store policy.

     In the case of the 2013 Pappy release in Fargo, they got 15 bottles of Pappy. This means that half of the people on the list did not get a bottle. The entire years supply of Pappy had come and gone in Fargo in 2.5 hours. Seem pretty tough? Remember, Fargo is where you want to be! Compare that to Lexington, KY. My friend arrived at his local Lexington liquor store on the anticipated release date at four AM! He waited in line for eight hours, for his one bottle. He was one of the lucky few. Many more in Lexington were turned away. Not all limited release's are this ferocious.        

     Within my collection, I have two categories; "go to" and "boutique". There are certain parameters that define these categories. I want to make one thing very clear. It's not like I have a "crappy" category and a "prestigious" category. The distinction has very little to do with quality, and more to do with price and availability. If I can find it somewhat easily around town for $30ish bucks or under, then it falls into my go to category. By contrast, if its a limited edition, annual release, requiring a waiting list, or greater than $30 bucks, then it falls into my boutique category. I dont feel so bad to dip into my go to bourbons more frequently, because they generally replaceable. My boutique labels are for special events such as weddings, holidays and anniversaries. All of my bourbons are purchased with the understanding that they will eventually be consumed. In other words, I'm not opening a whisky museum!

     I have learned that one thing is true; price does not dictate quality. There are so many wonderful bourbons out there that are under or around $30 bucks. These labels can be far better, or just as good as bourbons twice their price. Of course, the flip side is that there are expensive bourbons that just aren't that good. How do you sort it all out? To be honest, it does require a fair amount of research and leg work. In order to make these distinctions and formulate opinions, you need to read multiple reviews, get to know store managers, distributors, mark your calendar for release dates, put your name on multiple waiting list, check in regularly, put all of your stores on speed dial, keep a running log of notes and taste, taste, taste!

     Sounds like a lot of work? Not if you enjoy it! You know your on the right track when your local liquor stores bestow you with nicknames. For example, in Fargo i'm known as The Colonel or The Bourbon Guy.

     I would like very much to share some of thoughts on my favorite bourbons with you. I have decided to dedicate a serious of video postings on this topic. It is my hope that you find them helpful. I'm not planning on getting super specific with rating systems. That info can be found easily on line (the whisky bible, sourmash manifesto, whisky advocate). Instead, I might offer a very simple 1-10 scale (1 being the worst, and 10 being the best).  If your not into bourbon, don't worry. I will be returning to my previous blogging format soon. Now if I can only get my video equipment up and running, I'll be good to go!

   

                 
   

The Sadder Songs Session

      If you were in your early 20's during the early 2000's, liked to party and lived within two hours of Morehead Kentucky, then you probably spent a night at Lloyd Woods's trailer. Lloyd was a close friend of mine growing up. He was a college student at Morehad State University during this time. He more or less had an open house/couch/floor policy to anyone with a pulse. My brother was Lloyd's roommate during those days, and therefore an integral part of this scene.

     It was during my brothers extended stay in Morehead, that we started working on a music project. This project included a group of rotating musicians that frequented Lloyds trailer. My brother decided to create a name that we could all work under.  That name was "The Great Went Band." My brother's philosophy for the band was that anyone who passed through the circle of the Morehead scene could contribute to the project. The end result was a circus of a recording featuring a hodgepodge of styles. Though Great Went was lacking in audio quality and narrative, it was a unique opportunity to work with so many different musicians on a project with no rules.

     My favorite Great Went memory was in February of 02, when I lugged an entire drum kit from Hazard to Morehead for a recording session. There was a sense of anticipation in the air prior to my arrival. Lloyd's trailer had become a commune, with a growing fan base of young college students/groupies. Once the word got out around the campus about the recording project, it was only a matter of time before Lloyd's trailer turned into a 24/7 hang out for those wanting to be a part of "something big".

     I opened  Lloyd's front door on that February day, and instantly I was meet by at least six total strangers who knew everything about me. It was like Ringo Star had just walked into the building. This was hilarious to me, because I'm not even a "real drummer". Sure I had taken drum lessons when I was eight, and had only recently picked up drumming again out of necessity during my school of worship. I was like the guy that you would call on in a worst case situation if your official drummer was M.I.A. So, I just put a smile on and played the part. We had a party that night with plans to record the next morning.

     I managed to set up the drum kit in Lloyd's bedroom with the kick drum literally against the foot of his bed. People lined the walls of his bedroom like sardines in a tin can. We would finish a rough take, and people would be grinning from ear to ear, as though they just witnessed the launch of the first Apollo rocket. Despite being completely green behind the drum kit, I managed to turnout some of my best drumming to date. I attribute this to the atmosphere and vibe of the folks crammed into that little bedroom. Its easy to believe your the greatest drummer of all time when everyone in the room thinks you are! These photos are from that magic session.

     In summary, The Sadder Songs session was a fun project with a spontaneous, no holds bars spirit. It was fueled by the enthusiastic college partying scene of Morehead State University. The below link is from that recording session. Enjoy!

http://greatwent.bandcamp.com/track/sadder-songs