Pappy Van Winkel's Family Reserve 20 Year

Bourbon review #10: Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 20 Year Old

Category: Boutique


Price: $125


Availability: Only for double naught spies and Kentucky Colonels 


Proof: 90.4, 45.2%avb


Mashbill: Wheated

Age: 20 Years


Distillery: Originally- Stitzel Weller, Now-Buffalo Trace

     Up for my next review is the Rolls Royce, “Silver Cloud” of Kentucky Straight Bourbons. Actually, it would be easier for most folks to own a vintage Silver Cloud than a bottle of Pappy 20. No other bourbon on the planet is more highly sought after and coveted. No other bourbon is more elusive and virtually impossible to find. Millionaires would love to get there hands on just one bottle of this juice, but most often, can not. Although Pappy 20 is expensive, as bourbons go, no amount of money will secure a bottle. How then does one come to own a bottle of this extremely rare juice? You must become a “Pappy Hunter”.

     What is a “Pappy Hunter”, and can an ordinary person become one? In short, yes, just as an ordinary person can become a Navy Seal, or a Secret Agent. In all seriousness, you don’t have to possess a special skill set to become a Pappy hunter, but you do have to be willing to put in a fair amount of leg work. 

     Before I discuss the steps involved in becoming a Pappy hunter, its important to know that Pappy, or any Van Winkle product for that matter, can not be purchased on a liquor store shelf. This seems strange to most folks, but it is normal regarding many brands of limited release bourbons. 

     Pappy is released once a year in the fall. It goes from the distillery, to the distributors truck, to a liquor store manager's office. The manager then calls folks on a waiting list (assuming you live in a state with a waiting list system). It  usually operates on a first come, fist serve basis. In Fargo, ND, I was on a waiting list of 30 this year. If I were still living in Lexington, KY, I would have been on a list of 500ish. In Fargo, the entire supply of Pappy came and went in 2.5 hours. In Lexington, folks started lining up outside the liquor store at 4:00AM! They waited in line for 8 hours before the distributor even arrived at the store. Sound crazy? Welcome to the world of Pappy hunting! Remember, if your not willing to put in the effort, you simply won't get a bottle of Pappy. 

     If there is such a limited supply and people really want this stuff, why don't they just make more? I will address this question later in the post. First I will discuss the steps necessary in becoming a Pappy hunter.   

     Becoming a Pappy Hunter involves getting to know your store managers and distributors on a first name basis, knowing when the distributors make their weekly rounds, knowing when specific labels will be released, getting on multiple waiting list months in advance and having all of your local liquor stores on speed dial/caller ID. Seem like a lot of work? Well, it is! But lets face it, Pappy 20 is not just going to materialize in your pantry. Most folks who are not willing to seriously involve themselves in ALL of the above steps, will never get their hands on a bottle. 

     But what makes Old Rip Van Winkle bourbon so rare? Is it just hype, or is there something truly magical associated with Van Winkle bourbon? Those questions cannot be answered without taking a closer look at the history and current state of the Van Winkle Company. Until we know how Pappy originated and evolved, we will never fully appreciate why it is so highly regarded.

The History: (Sourced from O.R.V.W.)

                    Photo: Julian "Pappy" Van Winkel, Julian II and Julian III.

     The Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery has a four generation history. The Van Winkle family’s involvement in the bourbon industry began in the late 1800s with Julian P. "Pappy" Van Winkle, Sr. He was a traveling salesman for the W.L. Weller and Sons wholesale house in Louisville, traveling around the state by horse and buggy. Pappy and a friend, Alex Farnsley, eventually bought the wholesale house and also purchased the A. Ph. Stitzel Distillery, which made bourbon for Weller. They merged the two companies and became the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Their prominent brands were W.L. Weller, Old Fitzgerald, Rebel Yell, and Cabin Still.

     In May of 1935, at the age of 61, Pappy opened the newly completed Stitzel-Weller Distillery in South Louisville. He had a heavy influence on the operations there until his death at the age of 91. His son, Julian, Jr. took over operations until he was forced by stockholders to sell the distillery in 1972. The rights to all of their brands were either sold with the distillery or to other distilleries.

     After selling the distillery, Julian, Jr. resurrected a pre-prohibition label, the only one to which the Van Winkles kept the rights, called Old Rip Van Winkle. He used whiskey stocks from the old distillery to supply his brand. Julian junior’s son, Julian, III took over in 1981 when Julian, Jr. passed away. Julian, III has continued with the Van Winkle tradition of producing the highest quality wheated bourbon available. His son, Preston joined company in 2001 and the Van Winkles look to continue that tradition for generations to come.

                                      Photo: Pre-Prohibition Original Old Van Winkle Label   

     Recently, the Van Winkles entered into a joint venture with the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, KY. All of the Van Winkle’s whiskey production now takes place at Buffalo Trace under the same strict guidelines the family has always followed in order to produce a superior quality product. 

     Julian now has his whiskey produced for him under his grandfather's original wheated bourbon recipe, and ages and bottles the Old Rip Van Winkle brands in Frankfort, Kentucky. His whiskeys are the highest rated whiskeys available. The 20-year old "Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve" has received a rating of 99 by the Wine Enthusiast magazine. His 13-year old rye whiskey was the first premium aged rye whiskey. In 2001 Julian's son Preston joined the business with his dad. He is the fourth Van Winkle to sell these premium bourbon and rye whiskeys.

                                 Photo: Julian Van Winkle III, at Buffalo Trace 

     Now that you know a little about the history, I’ll try to explain why it’s so rare in today’s market. The O.R.V.W. vintage products that we enjoy today were placed into production as much as 23 years ago. My bottle of Pappy 20 was released in the Fall of 2012. This means that it was distilled and began it’s aging process in the early 1990’s. Just for reference, I was 13-14 years old at that time. I’m now enjoying this same bourbon at age 35-36.

     Bourbon culture was very different in the early 90’s. Single barrel bourbon was a relatively new concept. The idea of boutique bourbon was non existent, or at best, completely under the radar. Although the Van Winkle family never intended for their products to be mass produced, by contrast they also never intended for them to reach the cult popular status that they have today.

     It boils down to a supply and demand issue. There is just simply not enough Pappy supply to meet the demand of the current boutique bourbon market. According to Preston Van Winkle, the supply is growing by 2-3% each year. Julian Van Winkle III jokingly reported in an interview that he wanted to be careful not to make drastic decisions to ramp up the supply in the event that marijuana becomes legal. He said, “If that happened, I’d be sitting on a pile of bourbon that I couldn’t sell”. I think his decision to not make a knee jerk reaction to the current demand is wise. Even if he did, we wouldn’t see those results for a couple of decades.

     The other aspect that makes the O.R.V.W. products so unique, is that they are one of the few Companies producing very old wheated bourbon. This is a niche category within bourbon. W.L. Weller and Old Fitzgerald make a 12-year-old wheater. Buffalo Trace also annually releases William Larue Weller bourbon as part of their “Antique Collection”. It’s a wheated, 12-year bourbon offered at barrel strength. Few, if any companies are producing wheaters older than 12 years. The Pappy line consists of 15, 20 and 23 year old products.

           

     My bottle of Pappy 20 was picked up in the Fall of 2012. This means that it was either entirely Stitzel Weller juice, or a blending of Stitzel Weller and Buffalo Trace bourbon. Stitzel Weller closed its doors in the early 90’s. Once the remainder of the stalks was used up, the Van Winkle line was rolled over to Buffalo Trace, where it is made today.

     Why would this matter? From a quality perspective, it does not. Buffalo Trace is an outstanding distillery, fully capable of carrying on the Van Winkle legacy. From a bourbon nerd prospective, it’s huge because Stitzel Weller is a mythical distillery from days gone by. Once we drink up the last of what rolled out during the final days at S.W., it will be no more than a memory. Forever part of Kentucky bourbon folklore. I do have one other bottle of S.W. bourbon in my pantry, and yes, it is entirely S.W. juice. That’s a different post for a different day.    

     A Side Note On This Episode: This installment of Exquisite Libations was shot in NYC with my brother, Cedric Warner Sparkman, as special guest. The trip was very celebratory, as it centered around his wedding. This called for a very special bourbon to review. Pappy 20 fit the bill perfectly!

     The day leading up to the shooting of the episode was perfect in every way. That morning, my brother and I had delicious pastries and coffee for breakfast from a Hungarian pastry shop. After that, we walked approximately120 blocks exploring the city. The weather was perfect with bright, blue, sunny skies. At 4 in the afternoon, we stopped for a bite at Russ and Daughters, where I had one of the best sandwiches of my life! I could try to explain the sandwich, but it would be in vain. It’s just something you would need to experience. After filling up on this amazing food, it was on to prepare for the episode.

     Above Photo: Although this was not the sandwich I ordered, this will give you an idea of a typical Russ and Daughter sandwich.

                        Above Photo: Interior of Russ and Daughters

     The video was shot on a rooftop of a newly constructed condo overlooking the skyline of NYC. We waited until “magic hour” (sunset) to roll the camera. It was very meaningful to toast to my newly married brother with one of the greatest bourbons of all time. After the filming of the episode, we enjoyed additional refreshments while talking amongst friends. The view was stunning, as the entire skyline of the city glowed against the night sky.

     At 11:30pm, we stopped for falafels before heading back to Warner’s place via the subway. This ended one of the best days that I can remember! Looking back on it will no doubt provide memories for a life time.    

                                      Above Photo: Falafel at Oasis.

     Overall: Pappy 20 year is a sensational vintage wheated bourbon, worthy of the highest praise! I dare say that it is the most mature, elegant bourbon I have ever tasted. It’s complexity presents itself in the form of soft, buttery, decadent, sweet and smoky notes. It rolls around in your mouth like a silk blanket. After returning from NYC, I’m still tasting the finish! Ladies and Gentleman, it is with great pleasure and confidence that I, the Colonel, give this classic bourbon a 10 out of 10!!   

     

The Colonel's Signature Mint Julep Recipe

     From Churchill downs to Keenland, the Colonel has consumed many mint Juleps. The large majority of them have been disgusting! Think North Carolina sweet tea, packed with crushed-ice, a dash of low proof rock-gut bourbon, and a sprig of peppermint for decoration. You get the idea. The end result is an overpriced, overly sweet, watered-down mint slushpuppie that hints of bourbon. I basically got to the point where I stopped ordering them altogether.

     However, the flavor combinations could work unbelievably well together, if they were done right. Case in point; I always thought meatloaf was hideous. Turned out that I just never had good meatloaf. I was skeptical to try it, until a fantastic chef made it for me. Regardless of the dish (or drink), it’s all about freshness of ingredients, and an experienced, discerning chef/bartender. The same point applies when creating a fantastic julep. You can build a castle on a weak foundation. No matter how pretty it looks, it’s going to crumble.  

     Other bourbon enthusiasts have expressed similar concerns about the current dissatisfying state of the julep. Many of them have set out on their own journeys to make the perfect julep.

      The function of this episode is to bring you a mint julep that the world has only dreamed about. A julep that is bold, balanced and brilliant! A julep that showcases bourbon on a towering pedestal, rather than letting it sink in a syrupy swamp. Ladies and gentleman, I give you Colonel Sparkman’s Signature Mint Julep!!

     This is not a julep for the Colonel and his team of Swiss alchemists to enjoy alone. All of my efforts are for the purposes of sharing this southern treasure with you….the serious connoisseur! If you follow my step-by-step instructions listed below, you’ll be sure to turn out a knock your socks off julep! Once you get the hang of it, you can enjoy these fine cocktails with friends any time of year. There is only one rule; don’t deviate one degree from my below listed steeps, lest ye find yourself in the ruins of julep sorrow!

1.     The bourbon: No need for spendy stuff. Stick to a good, moderate to low priced, high proof bourbon. DO NOT DIP BELOW 90 PROOF (86 IS NOT EXCEPTABLE). I would recommend the following: Evan Williams White Label BIB, Pure Kentucky XO 107 proof, Old Grand-dad BIB, Very Old Barton BIB and Old Heaven Hill BIB. If you can’t find these, Wild Turkey 101 would also be a great choice. Some folks use rye whisky, but I would personally stick to bourbon.

2.     The Ice: The ice from your freezer will work fine as long as it doesn’t have any freezer burn/off flavors. If you want to be on the safe side, just pick up a bag from you local store. Once you have the ice, wrap it in a tea towel and beat it with a hammer, rolling pen, or any blunt object. The idea is to powderise the ice. Once this is accomplished, you can transfer it into gallon zip lock bags. Put them back in your freezer until all the following steps are completed.

3.     The Mint: DO NOT USE PEPPERMINT. Fresh spearmint will work fine, but the ultimate is Kentucky Colonel Mint. You can order it on line from the following link.

     http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291046308394?lpid=82

4.     The Cup: My best recommendation would be a very thin stainless still cup. You can find these on line if you search for julep cup. They will frost up nicely and retain the cold temperature from the ice. If you don’t have one you could also use a rocks glass, or whatever you have in your pantry.

     5. The Recipe: -3/4 ounce Mint Simple Syrup (Recipe Follows)

                             -6 Kentucky Colonel Mint Leaves (medium to large size)


                             -3 Ounces of High Proof Bourbon

                             -Powderized Ice


 Mint Simple Syrup -2 cups Sugar


                                  -1 cup Water


                                  -10 Mint Leaves Plus Stems (including garnish sprigs)

     To start, simply take 2 cups of sugar, add 1 cup of water, place in a medium saucepan, and bring up to heat over a medium flame.  Don’t use high heat.  All you want to do is fully dissolve the sugar.  Once that happens, remove the simple syrup from the heat and set aside.  It needs to cool down to room temperature before making any mint juleps.  If you’d like to ramp up the mint flavor, here is a great opportunity to do so.  Grab a good 4-6 sprigs of fresh mint and add it to the hot simple syrup while it cools.  Much like steeping tea, you’ll infuse the simple syrup with even more mint flavor.  You can also make this well in advance (days if need be) and reserve in the refrigerator.  It’ll be ready when you are.  Remember, you can vary the sweetness you desire with just a bit more or less simple syrup.  Play with it to see what works for your tastes. For a word of caution: LESS IS MORE!

Step 1. Place 5-6 mint leaves in bottom of glass or cup of choice.

Step 2. Pour a teaspoon or less of mint simple syrup over mint leaves. 

Step 3. “Muddle” gently with a muddler or wooden spoon for 5-10 seconds until glass is fragrant with Mint oils and mint is coated with simple syrup. Be gentle while muddling! Do not overly smash, bruise or break up the mint. This would release acidic, off flavors. Use the muddle spoon to brush the mint syrup and leaves in a circular fashion along the sides of the glass. Think of it as though you are painting the interior walls of your cup with the mint leaves and oil mixture.

Step 4. Add just a touch of ice and half a jigger of bourbon. Muddle them to start the dilution process.

Step 5. Add powdered ice right to top of the glass (it should be heaping over the brim). Shape and round it with the palm of your hand (the top should look like a snow cone).

Step 6. Pour remaining amount of bourbon (2.5 oz) over ice. (Ice will cave in a bit. This is normal).

Step 7. Add 1 teaspoon (or less) of mint syrup over ice. Be conservative.

Step 8. Lay the garnish sprig of mint in the flat palm of your hand. Smack it with the other hand. (Just like clapping) This will aid in releasing the aroma of mint. 

Step 9. Garnish with Mint Sprig and a cut plastic straw one-inch above the rim. This will bring your nose closer to the cocktail and fragrant mint. Insert straw into the center of the mint garnish.

Step 10. (Optional) Dust mint and ice with confectionary sugar. This gives the completed beverage a finished look of freshly powered snow.

Step 11. Enjoy!

      

 

Willett Pot Still Reserve Single Barrel

Bourbon Review #9: Willett Pot Still Reserve - Single Barrel 




Category: Grey Zone 

Price: $45



Availability: Year Round, Everywhere

Proof: 94, 47% abv

Mashbill: No statement- Standard

Age: 8-10 Years 

Distillery: K.B.D. (Kentucky Bourbon Distillers LTD.) Bardstown, KY

     The KBD (Kentucky Bourbon Distillers) Company is currently producing bourbons such as Pure Kentucky XO, Willett, Noah’s Mill, Rowan’s Creek, Old Bardstown, Johnny Drum and Kentucky Vintage. While many of these bourbons are getting great reviews, I get the impression that casual bourbon customers are not taking the KBD Company very seriously.

     There are several misconceptions regarding KBD. These include: 1. KBD is a new Company. 2. KBD is a large, decentralized, corporate company. 3. KBD won’t release the sourcing locations for their bourbon; therefore, they must be hiding something. I will try to shed some light on these misconceptions in the previous listed order.

     1. Folks think KBD is a new company due to the facelift that it is undergoing. KBD also recently placed some new brands on the market. What most folks don’t realize, is that KBD’s is a small, family owned operation. It’s roots are rich regarding Kentucky Straight Bourbon with a heritage dating back to the late 1800’s. If you have the time and the interest, I would recommend reading the history of the Willet Company at the following link.

http://www.kentuckybourbonwhiskey.com/willett-story.html

     2. KBD has and will continue to source bourbon from other distilleries until their own juice is aged and market ready. This does not label them as a decentralized company. Though they source from several KY Distilleries, they are centrally located in Bardstown, KY. This has always been the location of the old Willett Distillery.

     3. Serious bourbon consumers want to know everything about the bourbon that they purchase. Most Distilleries make great efforts to inform their customers about every aspect of the distillation and aging process. KBD’s (Old Willett) distillery has been out of commission for decades. The current generation of the Willett family has been working very hard to restore the old Willett Distillery to its full operating potential.

     By legal contract, KBD cannot release the distilleries that they source their bourbon from. They have nothing to hide. It’s just a legal stipulation for situations regarding any company sourcing bourbon from other non-related companies. Does this mean that the current lineups of KBD brands are sub par? Not in the least! Because KBD is a small, family owned business, they can be very selective of the bourbon that they source. Heaven Hill is located just a mile down the road from KBD. Logically, this would make for a convenient sourcing location. Although this is likely true, other distilleries remain anonymous.    

     On January 18^th 2012, members of the Willett family and company employees fired up the stills in an effort to once again produce KBD juice for the world. Bourbon takes a minimum of four years of aging before its fully matured and ready to be bottled. This means that we won’t likely see KBD juice on the market until 2016 at the earliest. In the mean time, don’t be afraid to pick up their brands. Jim Murray gave Willett Pot Still Family Reserve Single Barrel a 95 out of 100 rating. Jason Pile has also given their products consistently high ratings.  

                                    The newly renovated Willett Distillery in Bardstown, KY.

     

     Overall: Willett Single Barrel is another great example of single barrel bourbon. I’m starting to notice a pattern with these nicer expressions of single barrels. I think they make for some of the most balanced bourbons on the market. This may be due to the fact that more control is applied when dealing with the juice of a single barrel.

     The flavors in this expression are warm, soft, round, rich and buttery. There is a hearty presence of sweet dry corn that serves to round out the mix. I would say that the corn dominates the rye, while remaining very balanced. This is a beautiful expression of bourbon. Perhaps it’s a little more than I would like to spend for a ”go-to” bourbon. That’s why I have marked it in my “gray zone” category. Nonetheless, it’s a very nice expression, and it’s got me curious to try some of the other KBD offerings! The Colonel gives it a solid 8 out of 10.  

  

Parker's Heritage Single Barrel 2013 Promise of Hope

Bourbon Review #8: Parker's Heritage Single Barrel 2013 Promise of Hope




Category: Boutique 

Price: $95

Availability: Limited Annual (Fall) Release 

Proof: 96, 48% a.b.v.

Mashbill: No Statement

Age: 10 Years  

Distillery: Heaven Hill, Bardstown, Kentucky

     Heaven Hill in Bardstown, KY produces some great whiskies. These include, Even Williams, Elijah Craig, Old Fitzgerald, Rittenhouse Rye and many more. Like many other distilleries, H. H. has jumped on the premium bourbon train that’s sweeping the globe. Their contribution to the boutique bourbon craze is Parkers Heritage. This label fits the profile of other limited released bourbons in that it is expensive, hard to find and released in small quantity.

     This is the 7^th year Parkers Heritage has been released. Each year it’s an entirely different expression, chosen by Heaven Hill’s Master Distillers, Parker and Craig Beam. This is a rundown of all seven releases.

Parker’s Heritage Collection 1-7

◦       PHC1 – 10 Year Bourbon, Cask Strength

◦       PHC2 – 27 Year Bourbon, 96 Proof

◦       PHC3 – Golden Anniversary, 100 Proof

◦       PHC4 – Wheated 10 Year, Cask Strength

◦       PHC5 – 10 Year Bourbon, Cognac Cask, 100 Proof

◦       PHC6 – Master Distiller’s Blend of Mashbills, Cask Strength

◦       PHC7 – “Promise of Hope” 10 Year Single Barrel

     Father and son team Parker and Craig have consistently turned out some wonderful expressions of bourbon over the last seven years! This years release is called “Promise of Hope”. Parker has recently been diagnosed with ALS. The concept behind this years release is that $20.00 from each bottle sold will be donated to the ALS Promise Fund. Its basically premium bourbon that is sold to support a wonderful cause. The Colonel thinks this is a great idea!

     Most limited edition bourbons these days try to offer something unique and exotic. The goal is to put something on the market in very limited quantity that differs from the normative bourbon concept. In other words, the goal with these limited release bourbons is to knock your socks off. For example, The B. T. Antique Collection offers several very old barrel strength whiskies, with unique mashbills. Four Roses has put a lot of thought into their limited edition lines, featuring their completely original multiple yeast approach. Then you have the Pappy concept, offered as a very old, super premium, wheated bourbon. With so much out there to choose from, the bar has been set ridiculously high for any limited edition bourbon! Lets face it…. there has never been such anticipation for high-end bourbons! 

     That said, the P.H. 2013 release could easily get lost in the shuffle of other fall releases. After all, its got a very normal mashbill, its only 10 years old, its not coming from Heaven Hill’s pre-fire stock and its not barrel strength. So, what makes it special? Folks, the Colonel is here to tell you that this is classical, no frills bourbon, done right! This expression is making a statement that you don’t have to be exotic to be fantastic! 

     This is a short video clip, recently taken of master distiller Parker Beam.                    

Parker's H. 2013 from Graham Sparkman on Vimeo.




     Overall: The P. H. 2013 reminds me of a more sophisticated version of the Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel. It’s all those classic, core bourbon flavors (vanilla, cinnamon and oak), with a slightly longer than moderate finish. The flavors are stunningly balanced and well concentrated in the mouth. If someone stopped me on the street and said, what is the best example of extremely nice, classic bourbon? I would point them to this expression. The Colonel ranks it in the #5 spot on my top five favorite boutique bourbons. I give it an 8-9 out of 10 overall. 

Basil Hayden's Small Batch

Bourbon Review #7: Basil Hayden's Small Batch




Category: Go-to

Price: $35



Availability: Year Round, Everywhere

Proof: 80, 40% a.b.v.

Mashbill: double the percentage of rye (18% rye +) for a typical bourbon

Age: "Artfully Aged" This makes the Colonel laugh!  

Distillery: Kentucky Springs Distilling Co. Clermont Frankfort, KY (Owned by Jim Beam)

   The Colonel came home after a long day of work to find a quiet house. The kids had been put to bed, the lights were turned down, and I was glad to be able to finally relax. I walked into the kitchen to find a bottle of Basil Hayden's on the counter with a hand written note from the Colonel's wife. "Dear Colonel, Thanks so much for all your hard work. Love, The Colonel's wife, XXXXXOOOOO". 

     It’s the small surprises that make life interesting and fun. Well, that's how I came by my bottle of Basil Hayden's. In order to set the stage for this weeks review, let’s have a deeper look into this brand.

     

     The History: The Basil Hayden's bourbon brand is named in honor of Basil Hayden, Sr., who was a Maryland Catholic that led a group of twenty-five Catholic families from Maryland into what is now Nelson County, Kentucky (near Bardstown) in 1785. This area is home to many of the famous bourbon brands, including Jim Beam. There Hayden donated the land for the first Catholic Church west of the Alleghenies and the first Catholic Church in what is now the Commonwealth of Kentucky.

     Hayden was also a distiller. He used a larger amount of rye in his mash when compared to most other bourbons. Later, Hayden's grandson Raymond B. Hayden founded a distillery in Nelson County and named his label "Old Grand-Dad" in honor of his grandfather. The picture on the bottle was copied from a rendering of Basil Sr.'s likeness.

     Today: Basil Hayden’s Bourbon is a part of Jim Beam’s Small Batch collection, which includes Knob Creek Small Batch, Baker’s 107, and Booker’s. Basil Hayden’s is the lightest bodied and highest rye recipe of the four, with as much as double the rye grain content. It’s by far my favorite of the Jim Beam products in this line.

     Bourbon connoisseurs can get a little snobby when it comes to anything associated with the Jim Beam name. I think that this is a shame. Basil Hayden’s is a perfect example of a truly unique expression of bourbon. Honestly, I don’t have anything in my pantry that taste like it.   

     I define it as a top shelf, mass produced bourbon. It’s price has a high degree of fluctuation, ranging from the low 30’s to the low 40’s. For this reason, I have trouble determining its categorical placement. I have found that more often than not, it will range on the lower side of the spectrum. Thus, I have decided to list it as ”go-to” bourbon.

      

     Overall: This is a very interesting expression of bourbon due to the combination of low proof and high rye. If the proof were higher, it would smother the delicate notes, produced by the high rye content. The folks at Jim Beam really hit the bull's eye with this concept.

     It’s perhaps the most accessible bourbon I have ever tasted. It’s playful, dainty, feminine and yet complex. If you’re looking to expand your pantry, you should consider including a bottle of Basil Hayden’s. It’s very unique among other brands. Because of its accessibility, I would recommend it to folks who are newer to the bourbon world. The Colonel gives it a 7-8 out of 10! 

        

    

Four Roses Small Batch 2013 Limited Edition

Bourbon Review #6: Four Roses Small Batch 2013 Limited Edition




Category: Boutique



Price: $100



Availability: Limited Annual (Fall) Release



Proof: 103.2, 51.6 %abv (Barrel Strength)



Mashbill: OBSV-18 Years, OBSK-13 Years, OESK-13 Years (Three separate recipes)

Age: 13 to 18 years (depending on the barrel)



Distillery: Four Roses, Lawrenceburg, KY

     There are three things you need to know in order to appreciate what an incredible bourbon company Four Roses (F. R.) is. 1. The History 2. The man who is Jim Rutledge 3. The magic of the yeast. I’ll walk you through it.

     1. The History: (A true come back story): Four roses is a brand of Kentucky Straight Bourbon that was started by founder Paul Jones Jr. in 1884. Jones moved his thriving business to Louisville, Kentucky where he opened an office in a section of historic Main Street called, "Whiskey Row."

                                                                Paul Jones Jr.

      In 1922, the Paul Jones Company purchased the Frankfort Distilling Company, one of only six distilleries granted permission to operate through prohibition to produce bourbon for medicinal purposes. In the years under Paul's direction, sales of the bourbon flourished and Four Roses grew to be America’s number one selling brand of Kentucky Straight Bourbon. 

                   Above photo: 1928 F.R. as a prescription only, medicinal whisky

     Four Roses experienced a transition when Seagram purchased the brand along with the Frankfort Distilling Co in 1943.  At the close of the 1950's, bourbon sales in the US plummeted. For this reason, Seagram made the decision to discontinue Four Roses as Kentucky Straight Bourbon to an American market. During this time, blended whisky was actually more popular than KY Straight Bourbon, and for some strange reason considered to be a premium product.

                                                    1935 Pre Seagram advertisement.

1936 Pre Seagram advertisement. 

     Lets take a moment to discuss what blended whisky is. At that time a blended whiskey was most commonly an aged whiskey blended with Grain Neutral Spirits (GNS). Think of it as light whiskey or whiskey-flavored vodka as some describe it. The real Four Roses Bourbon was still being distilled in Lawrenceburg Kentucky, but Americans could taste not a drop of it for over forty years! All of it was for export only to Asia and Europe, where bourbon was experiencing a rise in popularity. The “USA version” of Four Roses was distilled out of Indiana and Maryland as “grade A”, and eventually bottom shelf “grade B” blended whiskey. To quote F. R. Master Distiller Jim Rutledge, “The quality of the stuff they were selling was a rotgut whiskey. It was just awful.”

     2. The man who is Jim Rutledge: Four Rose’s greatest hero is Jim Rutledge. He grew up in Louisville, KY. Jim started working for Seagram in the late 60’s. He, above all people, worked relentlessly to try and get the management at Seagram to return their premium bourbon to an American market. Despite his best efforts, he was turned away time after time.

Above Photo: Jim Rutledge

     

     During the 1990’s Seagram made some bad financial decisions, and ended up going out of business. Four Roses Bourbon was alive and well in Japan. It was the best selling American Whiskey in Asia. Kirin, one of the largest breweries in Japan, was the distributor for Four Roses Bourbon in the Asian market. They knew all too well what a great product Four Roses was, and they did not want to lose it.

     In 2001, Kirin purchased Four Roses. Meetings that followed gave Jim Rutledge one last audience to plead his case, (paraphrase) “Let us get rid of this blended whiskey from the U.S. shelves and bring Four Roses Bourbon back”. Jim was given the answer he had been waiting on for decades.

     Kirin said yes to the man that had waited so long to restore the Four Roses brand to prominence in the U.S. In 2002, Jim and his team proceeded forward with that task in earnest. They recalled all of the U.S. Four Roses Blended Whiskey from the shelves and dumped it!  

     When the new F. R. first hit the shelves as “the return of America’s favorite bourbon”, folks were skeptical. This was due to decades of negative associations. The brand conjured up images of homeless, boxcar-winos. The transition did not happen overnight.

     Over time bourbon connoisseurs, the world over began to see F. R. in a new light. In 2004, F. R. introduced their Single Barrel line. This product is now the top selling single barrel bourbon in the state of Kentucky, a testament to the quality of the product and the power of the brand today. F.R. has been on a roll wining awards both nationally and internationally. Now, Thanks to the hard work and dedication of Jim Rutledge, it’s considered to be one of the finest Kentucky Straight Bourbon Companies in the world.    

     F.R. created the Limited Edition concept around five years ago. This has grown to become one of the highest anticipated releases of the year, earning it the nickname " The B.T. Antique Collection Killer." The collection is made up of two expressions: 1. Small batch and 2. Single Barrel. As with many limited release bourbons, each year’s release is a different expression from the year before. Part of the reason that these bourbons are so unbelievably good has to do with their unique mashbill. The subject of this review is the 2013 L.R. Small Batch.

     As with all “small batch” bourbons, the master distiller will hand select separate barrels that he feels will exemplify the best of there given mashbills. The barrels are then married together to create a truly unique expression. If you scroll up and read my mashbill section, you will see some cryptic coding. I will briefly explain: 

     Each of the recipes is identified by a four-letter code, but only two of those letters describe the makeup of the recipe. The first letter is always O, which designates the bourbon as having been made at the Four Roses Distillery (It is assumed that these codes date back to when the distillery operated under its previous name, Old Prentice). The second letter will either be E (75% corn, 20% rye, 5% malted barley) or B (60% corn, 35% rye, 5% malted barley). Recipes with a higher percentage of corn will typically produce sweeter bourbon, while those with a higher percentage of rye will usually result in a bourbon with more spice character. The third letter is always S, which designates the distillate as “straight”, meaning it came off the still at 80% abv or less.

     3. The magic of the yeast: I think it really gets interesting when we get to the fourth letter. This letter referrers to the yeast strain. Let me just say that to my knowledge, no other distillery is doing anything remotely close to this. I’m speaking about combining different yeast strains from different mashbills to create an ultimate small batch expression.  F. R. has a total of ten different mashbills and five different yeast strains that they can mix and mingle. When you couple that with age, warehouse location and so on, The possibilities are endless! In the case of the 2013 Small Batch Limited Release, the “V” in the recipe refers to the distillery’s fruitier, creamier yeast. “K” refers to a spicier strain of yeast. These whiskeys were “mingled” together to create a harmonious blend. The results are something truly epic.

   

     Overall: This is truly an unparalleled, master-class bourbon, offered at the perfect proof! It’s big and bold, while maintaining a rare elegance and sophistication unmatched in the bourbon world. Its unique notes of vanilla custard and rich cherry cordial balance the smoke infused oaky finish. The Colonel gives this bourbon a 10 out of 10! Christmas in a glass! Shear genius!

   

     

Each of the ten recipes is identified by a four letter code, but only two of those letters describe the makeup of the recipe. The first letter is always O, which designates the bourbon as having been made at the Four Roses Distillery (I assume these codes date back to when the distillery operated under its previous name, Old Prentice). The third letter is always S, which designates the distillate as “straight”, meaning it came off the still at 80% abv or less (all Four Roses whiskey is “straight” these days, but under Seagram’s ownership there would have been plenty of whiskey floating around which didn’t qualify for the “straight” designation, making this a more relevant bit of information).
The second letter identifies the mash bill. It will either be E (75% corn, 20% rye, 5% malted barley) or B (60% corn, 35% rye, 5% malted barley). Recipes with a higher percentage of corn will typically produce a sweeter bourbon, while those with a higher percentage of rye will usually result in a bourbon showing more of that grain’s unique spicy character.
The fourth letter identifies the yeast strain:
V – delicate fruitiness  savory, complex, slightly fruity, exceptionally well-balanced classic bourbon
K – spicy  full-bodied, slow-aging, with a particular spicy quality distinct from that of rye grain
O – rich fruitiness  plump, juicy and rounded with red fruit tones, complex and long in flavor
Q – floral  exceptionally floral with almost acacia-like tones, delicate and highly aromatic
F – herbal     

   

Evan WIlliams White Label B.I.B.

Bourbon Review #5: Evan Williams (White Label) Bottled-In- Bond




Category: Go-to 



Price: $18 per one liter bottle 

Availability: Year Round, Everywhere (harder to find than E. W. Black Label)



Proof: 100, A.V.B. 50%

Mashbill: Same as Black Label and 10 Year Single Barrel 

Age: No Age Description 

Distillery: Haven Hill, Bardstown, KY

     Evan Williams, or E & W, as I like to call it, was the favorite “go-to” bourbon for both of my grandfathers. The most common expression within this brand is the black label. In fact, it’s the 2^nd most popular bourbon in the world, just under Jim Beam.

     The White Label expression is a little harder to find, but in my opinion, better in quality. What is the difference between the two? From what I can tell, there isn’t a lot. I think they share a similar, if not identical, mashbill and age. The main difference is that the White Label is a “Bottled in Bond” bourbon, or “B.I.B.”

     I’ll take a moment to describe what this means. From the mid to late 1800’s, bourbon was becoming increasingly popular across this country. At that time, there were no guidelines as to what constituted bourbon. In the days of traveling minstrel shows and shysters pedaling snake oil, folks were putting all kinds of things into whisky and calling it "bourbon". They were doing this primarily to cut cost and turn out a fast product.

     In 1897, the US Government stepped in and came up with some guidelines as to what you had to have in your bottle in order to call it “bourbon”. Much like the German beer law of 1516, B.I.B. was put in to effect to protect the interest of official bourbon distilling companies. This is also where we get certain terminology such as "straight", as in Kentucky “Straight” Bourbon. 

     Without giving you all the boring details, this is what you need to know about B.I.B. bourbons, they are all 100 proof, they have to be run off the still from one season (as opposed to dumped into holding tanks prior to aging), they have to be a minimum of four years old and they have to be aged in a US Government sanctioned warehouse.

     These practices are antiquated by today’s standards. So, as one would imagine, B.I.B. bourbons have been largely discontinued. The few that are still around are retro throwbacks to a day gone by.

   

     Overall: This makes for a great pantry staple bourbon, with a cool retro vibe. When compared to most bourbons in this price range, the flavors are far more concentrated in the mouth, partly due to the elevated proof. For these reasons, I like it much better compared to its 86 proof “Black Label” brother.

     Many folks would overlook this expression and dismiss it as a cheap, bottom shelf bourbon. To quote Jason Pile, “we know better”! I would give it a 6 out of 10. The Colonel says, “If you can find it, buy it!”