The Colonel recently made a trip to his native land, which
also happens to be the motherland of all Kentucky Straight bourbons. During my
stay, I visited with my old friend Dr. Joel Kilty. I knew ahead of time that
Joel had something up his sleeve coinciding with my visit. A few weeks prior to
my trip, he told me that he wanted to shoot an episode of Exquisite Libations
on his home turf. We were kicking around some different ideas for the show when
we got some interesting news.
Jonathan’s Restaurant at Gratz Park in Lexington, KY was closing within
two weeks of my visit. With one of the most prestigious bourbon menus in the
state, Jonathan’s would be an excellent backdrop for the show. It was also the
location where Joel and I first experienced truly boutique bourbon. Despite my
best effort, it was too short notice, and therefore we could not book this
nostalgic location for the episode.
For the record, Dr. Kilty is no stranger to high-end bourbon! His pantry
is stalked to the gills with limited this, and private that. Regardless of what
he chose for the episode, I knew that I’d be in for something special! With the
unfortunate news of not being able to book Jonathan’s, I assumed that we would
be doing a standard episode at Joel’s house. Another idea of his was to shoot
an episode centered around a blind tasting.
It’s one thing to do a blind tasting amongst friends, off the record.
It’s another to be doing it live on a show! I knew that he could not disclose
the bourbons he would be choosing, so I thought that I would ask him a simple
question. How familiar will I be with these expressions? This was his response.
“I thought I would chose three bourbons of three different brands. Each of them
will be 10 years old. Each of them will be within a 20 proof range of each
other. And, by the way, I don’t think you have ever tried any of these.” What
the heck!!! Are you serious! How am I supposed to guess the exact expression of
bourbon based on color, smell and taste alone, when I have never put any of
these bourbons in my mouth!!
After further explanation, I was put at ease…. but not entirely. Joel
told me that after I had sampled, shared my thoughts, and made some educated
guesses about the bourbons, he would then reveal the three bottles. The bottles
would be in no particular order. It would then by my job to pin the tail on the
donkey, matching up the bottles to their corresponding pours. I knew it would
be risky, but I also knew it would make for an entertaining episode! The Colonel
was ready to take on Dr. Kilty’s blind tasting challenge!
The evening of the episode was a typical Kentucky summer night… hot and
humid! Children of the family were running through the water hose in the back
yard. My personal pilot (who flew me to KY) showcased his multitasking skills
by also cooking dinner for us. Being a fan of KY bourbon, I invited him to be
on the show. After the episode, several boutique bourbons made there way out of
Joel’s pantry. Lets just say that the flight home was beyond bumpy, yet somehow
the skies were silky smooth!
In regards to the episode, I was least familiar with the first two
expressions (1 and 2). They were more of a stab in the dark for me. On the
other hand, the Four Roses, Single Barrel, Cask-Strength was much more familiar
to me. Even though I had never tried this private selection offering, the
tasting notes matched the classic Four Roses bourbon flavor profile. Think of
it like this… you have tried regular Coke and Diet Coke. Now, you’re tasting
Coke Zero for the first time blind, but you are somewhat clued into the Coke
flavors. Once you look at it from this perspective, you can see why I was able
to identify it amongst the others.
My overall thoughts:
(Bourbon #1) Russell’s Reserve Small Batch10 year- This is a big, bold
bourbon with lots of oak and rye. The Alcohol is very present on the nose and
sip.
(Bourbon
#2) Bullet 10 Year- A little less rye forward, with fruity notes. Warm and
mellow with a longer decadent finish.
(Bourbon #3) Four Roses 10 Year Single Barrel, Barrel
Strength, Private Selection- This is a classic F.R. bourbon, showcasing a
brilliant display of complexity and balance. This one had the longest finish of
the group. In retrospect, I can see the kinship between this one and the Bullet
expression. If I had been judging based more on flavor, and less on proof, I
may not have made the switching mistake at the end of the episode. This was my
favorite bourbon in the group!
I certainly had fun with this episode! It accomplished an interesting
objective. I doubt that I would have been so open-minded when trying the Bullet
label, because of my own bias regarding that brand. After having tasted it
blind, I can really see the Four Roses influence on that expression. The bottom
line is the juice is good, but the company behind the Bullet label has been shady.
The shady part is likely to change, but that’s a different post for a different
day.
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