Pappy Van Winkel's Family Reserve 20 Year

Bourbon review #10: Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve 20 Year Old

Category: Boutique


Price: $125


Availability: Only for double naught spies and Kentucky Colonels 


Proof: 90.4, 45.2%avb


Mashbill: Wheated

Age: 20 Years


Distillery: Originally- Stitzel Weller, Now-Buffalo Trace

     Up for my next review is the Rolls Royce, “Silver Cloud” of Kentucky Straight Bourbons. Actually, it would be easier for most folks to own a vintage Silver Cloud than a bottle of Pappy 20. No other bourbon on the planet is more highly sought after and coveted. No other bourbon is more elusive and virtually impossible to find. Millionaires would love to get there hands on just one bottle of this juice, but most often, can not. Although Pappy 20 is expensive, as bourbons go, no amount of money will secure a bottle. How then does one come to own a bottle of this extremely rare juice? You must become a “Pappy Hunter”.

     What is a “Pappy Hunter”, and can an ordinary person become one? In short, yes, just as an ordinary person can become a Navy Seal, or a Secret Agent. In all seriousness, you don’t have to possess a special skill set to become a Pappy hunter, but you do have to be willing to put in a fair amount of leg work. 

     Before I discuss the steps involved in becoming a Pappy hunter, its important to know that Pappy, or any Van Winkle product for that matter, can not be purchased on a liquor store shelf. This seems strange to most folks, but it is normal regarding many brands of limited release bourbons. 

     Pappy is released once a year in the fall. It goes from the distillery, to the distributors truck, to a liquor store manager's office. The manager then calls folks on a waiting list (assuming you live in a state with a waiting list system). It  usually operates on a first come, fist serve basis. In Fargo, ND, I was on a waiting list of 30 this year. If I were still living in Lexington, KY, I would have been on a list of 500ish. In Fargo, the entire supply of Pappy came and went in 2.5 hours. In Lexington, folks started lining up outside the liquor store at 4:00AM! They waited in line for 8 hours before the distributor even arrived at the store. Sound crazy? Welcome to the world of Pappy hunting! Remember, if your not willing to put in the effort, you simply won't get a bottle of Pappy. 

     If there is such a limited supply and people really want this stuff, why don't they just make more? I will address this question later in the post. First I will discuss the steps necessary in becoming a Pappy hunter.   

     Becoming a Pappy Hunter involves getting to know your store managers and distributors on a first name basis, knowing when the distributors make their weekly rounds, knowing when specific labels will be released, getting on multiple waiting list months in advance and having all of your local liquor stores on speed dial/caller ID. Seem like a lot of work? Well, it is! But lets face it, Pappy 20 is not just going to materialize in your pantry. Most folks who are not willing to seriously involve themselves in ALL of the above steps, will never get their hands on a bottle. 

     But what makes Old Rip Van Winkle bourbon so rare? Is it just hype, or is there something truly magical associated with Van Winkle bourbon? Those questions cannot be answered without taking a closer look at the history and current state of the Van Winkle Company. Until we know how Pappy originated and evolved, we will never fully appreciate why it is so highly regarded.

The History: (Sourced from O.R.V.W.)

                    Photo: Julian "Pappy" Van Winkel, Julian II and Julian III.

     The Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery has a four generation history. The Van Winkle family’s involvement in the bourbon industry began in the late 1800s with Julian P. "Pappy" Van Winkle, Sr. He was a traveling salesman for the W.L. Weller and Sons wholesale house in Louisville, traveling around the state by horse and buggy. Pappy and a friend, Alex Farnsley, eventually bought the wholesale house and also purchased the A. Ph. Stitzel Distillery, which made bourbon for Weller. They merged the two companies and became the Stitzel-Weller Distillery. Their prominent brands were W.L. Weller, Old Fitzgerald, Rebel Yell, and Cabin Still.

     In May of 1935, at the age of 61, Pappy opened the newly completed Stitzel-Weller Distillery in South Louisville. He had a heavy influence on the operations there until his death at the age of 91. His son, Julian, Jr. took over operations until he was forced by stockholders to sell the distillery in 1972. The rights to all of their brands were either sold with the distillery or to other distilleries.

     After selling the distillery, Julian, Jr. resurrected a pre-prohibition label, the only one to which the Van Winkles kept the rights, called Old Rip Van Winkle. He used whiskey stocks from the old distillery to supply his brand. Julian junior’s son, Julian, III took over in 1981 when Julian, Jr. passed away. Julian, III has continued with the Van Winkle tradition of producing the highest quality wheated bourbon available. His son, Preston joined company in 2001 and the Van Winkles look to continue that tradition for generations to come.

                                      Photo: Pre-Prohibition Original Old Van Winkle Label   

     Recently, the Van Winkles entered into a joint venture with the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, KY. All of the Van Winkle’s whiskey production now takes place at Buffalo Trace under the same strict guidelines the family has always followed in order to produce a superior quality product. 

     Julian now has his whiskey produced for him under his grandfather's original wheated bourbon recipe, and ages and bottles the Old Rip Van Winkle brands in Frankfort, Kentucky. His whiskeys are the highest rated whiskeys available. The 20-year old "Pappy Van Winkle's Family Reserve" has received a rating of 99 by the Wine Enthusiast magazine. His 13-year old rye whiskey was the first premium aged rye whiskey. In 2001 Julian's son Preston joined the business with his dad. He is the fourth Van Winkle to sell these premium bourbon and rye whiskeys.

                                 Photo: Julian Van Winkle III, at Buffalo Trace 

     Now that you know a little about the history, I’ll try to explain why it’s so rare in today’s market. The O.R.V.W. vintage products that we enjoy today were placed into production as much as 23 years ago. My bottle of Pappy 20 was released in the Fall of 2012. This means that it was distilled and began it’s aging process in the early 1990’s. Just for reference, I was 13-14 years old at that time. I’m now enjoying this same bourbon at age 35-36.

     Bourbon culture was very different in the early 90’s. Single barrel bourbon was a relatively new concept. The idea of boutique bourbon was non existent, or at best, completely under the radar. Although the Van Winkle family never intended for their products to be mass produced, by contrast they also never intended for them to reach the cult popular status that they have today.

     It boils down to a supply and demand issue. There is just simply not enough Pappy supply to meet the demand of the current boutique bourbon market. According to Preston Van Winkle, the supply is growing by 2-3% each year. Julian Van Winkle III jokingly reported in an interview that he wanted to be careful not to make drastic decisions to ramp up the supply in the event that marijuana becomes legal. He said, “If that happened, I’d be sitting on a pile of bourbon that I couldn’t sell”. I think his decision to not make a knee jerk reaction to the current demand is wise. Even if he did, we wouldn’t see those results for a couple of decades.

     The other aspect that makes the O.R.V.W. products so unique, is that they are one of the few Companies producing very old wheated bourbon. This is a niche category within bourbon. W.L. Weller and Old Fitzgerald make a 12-year-old wheater. Buffalo Trace also annually releases William Larue Weller bourbon as part of their “Antique Collection”. It’s a wheated, 12-year bourbon offered at barrel strength. Few, if any companies are producing wheaters older than 12 years. The Pappy line consists of 15, 20 and 23 year old products.

           

     My bottle of Pappy 20 was picked up in the Fall of 2012. This means that it was either entirely Stitzel Weller juice, or a blending of Stitzel Weller and Buffalo Trace bourbon. Stitzel Weller closed its doors in the early 90’s. Once the remainder of the stalks was used up, the Van Winkle line was rolled over to Buffalo Trace, where it is made today.

     Why would this matter? From a quality perspective, it does not. Buffalo Trace is an outstanding distillery, fully capable of carrying on the Van Winkle legacy. From a bourbon nerd prospective, it’s huge because Stitzel Weller is a mythical distillery from days gone by. Once we drink up the last of what rolled out during the final days at S.W., it will be no more than a memory. Forever part of Kentucky bourbon folklore. I do have one other bottle of S.W. bourbon in my pantry, and yes, it is entirely S.W. juice. That’s a different post for a different day.    

     A Side Note On This Episode: This installment of Exquisite Libations was shot in NYC with my brother, Cedric Warner Sparkman, as special guest. The trip was very celebratory, as it centered around his wedding. This called for a very special bourbon to review. Pappy 20 fit the bill perfectly!

     The day leading up to the shooting of the episode was perfect in every way. That morning, my brother and I had delicious pastries and coffee for breakfast from a Hungarian pastry shop. After that, we walked approximately120 blocks exploring the city. The weather was perfect with bright, blue, sunny skies. At 4 in the afternoon, we stopped for a bite at Russ and Daughters, where I had one of the best sandwiches of my life! I could try to explain the sandwich, but it would be in vain. It’s just something you would need to experience. After filling up on this amazing food, it was on to prepare for the episode.

     Above Photo: Although this was not the sandwich I ordered, this will give you an idea of a typical Russ and Daughter sandwich.

                        Above Photo: Interior of Russ and Daughters

     The video was shot on a rooftop of a newly constructed condo overlooking the skyline of NYC. We waited until “magic hour” (sunset) to roll the camera. It was very meaningful to toast to my newly married brother with one of the greatest bourbons of all time. After the filming of the episode, we enjoyed additional refreshments while talking amongst friends. The view was stunning, as the entire skyline of the city glowed against the night sky.

     At 11:30pm, we stopped for falafels before heading back to Warner’s place via the subway. This ended one of the best days that I can remember! Looking back on it will no doubt provide memories for a life time.    

                                      Above Photo: Falafel at Oasis.

     Overall: Pappy 20 year is a sensational vintage wheated bourbon, worthy of the highest praise! I dare say that it is the most mature, elegant bourbon I have ever tasted. It’s complexity presents itself in the form of soft, buttery, decadent, sweet and smoky notes. It rolls around in your mouth like a silk blanket. After returning from NYC, I’m still tasting the finish! Ladies and Gentleman, it is with great pleasure and confidence that I, the Colonel, give this classic bourbon a 10 out of 10!!